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Abbot conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Abbot conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Sep 21, 2010 6:35 pm

Anyone been recently? Is the northeast couloir all ice or a bit of snow left where needed?
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Postby ridgeline » Wed Sep 22, 2010 3:12 am

Image

On 8-15-10 crampons made it easy, with a bit of an icy crust, instep crampons would have been fine. With cooler temps coming I am sure it will be icy in the am.
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Re: Abbot conditions

Postby haishan » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:35 am

Mr Chad... meant to post this earlier, hope it's not too late for you.
We climbed most of Abbot NE Couloir on 9/19. Heavily suncupped on the flats, good neve halfway up, and hard AI with patches of WI towards the top. Really nice conditions. It dries out near the top of the direct route. It looks like you can easily move left onto class 3-4 rock before the top of continuous ice. It won't soften during the day.

I posted a couple photos...

Image

Image
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mrchad9

Re: Abbot conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Fri Oct 01, 2010 6:46 am

Thank you haishan. I actually climbed it on 9/24. An excellent outing. Conditions just as you described. I took my steel crampons (as opposed to my normal choice of the lighter aluminum ones) and crossed onto the rock relatively low on the right side, before the real WI. Was an excellent trip and regardless, thanks for posting...
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