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advice on alpine rock in the alps

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advice on alpine rock in the alps

Postby fheimer » Tue May 01, 2007 4:21 pm

Going to chamonix and switzerland this summer any recomendations on alpine rock routes.
Up to 5.10 and anywhere between 1000-3000 ft would be a good.
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Postby Fred Spicker » Tue May 01, 2007 5:28 pm

Some of the best rock routes in the Alps are here:

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/15 ... -alps.html

Especially check out Badile:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... adile.html
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Postby gabriele » Tue May 01, 2007 5:39 pm

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alpine rock

Postby Koen » Tue May 01, 2007 6:06 pm

Hi,

for switzerland: check out this site (in German) for good guidebooks. Jurg von Kanel is a guy who introduced 'plaisir' routes to Switzerland. A 'plaisir' route is almost always a well equipped multi-pitch route, up to French grade 6b. Sometimes you need to bring your own protection.

The nature of the routes goes from true sportclimbing routes to alpine routes with 20 or more pitches. The routedescriptions in the guidebooks are in general of very good quality. These books gather the 'best' routes of several locations in Switzerland.

As mentioned above: the areas around Grimsel- and Furkapasses and Uri Alps and Bergell give great climbing on wonderful granite, with plenty of choice.

Cheers
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Postby fheimer » Tue May 01, 2007 9:54 pm

thanks for the feedback

starting to narrow things down a bit

What is a plaisir route. Is that a sport route in the alpine???

I think I'm looking for mainly traditionally protected climbs of a classic nature. If you could climb three alpine rock routes in the alps which would they be?
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Postby Moni » Wed May 02, 2007 12:26 am

Most of the plaisir routes are sport routes, some very short but a few are longer alpine routes.

My top 3 areas/climbs in Switzerland:


http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152645/Grosser-Diamantstock.html and others in that area.
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152647/Schijenstock.html and others in that area.
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151179/Pizzo-Badile.html and lots of others in that area.

These all have long serious routes.
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Postby fheimer » Wed May 02, 2007 4:59 pm

thanks moni those climbs all look great.

Anybosu else have three favorites? What about three favorites around Chamonix?
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