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Alpine harness

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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Ben Beckerich » Fri Jun 29, 2012 4:09 am

Couloir it shall be. I'll miss the extra gear loops, but I figure with all the screws on clippers, I can hang my draws from the loops and stick any extra needed gear on clippers. There's just not a huge assortment of things you need hanging off your harness for alpine- screws, alpine draws, tiblocs in the back, if negotiating glacier.

The massive drop in weight for minimal drop in performance is totally worth it, I think.
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sat Jun 30, 2012 2:33 am

I lied. Went down to my local shop today and tried on some harnesses... I hated the way the Couloir cut into my hips when I hung in it. The owner recommended a CAMP Blitz, which actually weighs less than the Couloir and has 4 gear loops and 2 clipper loops. And, while not "comfortable," was more comfortable than the Couloir for hanging. I don't spend a hell of a lot of time hanging, but I DO hang sometimes. I solo a lot, and hang from my umbilicals, and thinking back, pretty much any time I find myself roped to a partner in the alpine, I do seem to spend some time in at least a semi-hanging belay.

So... all the features of the Couloir, a little more comfortable- I went with it. Took it rock cragging this afternoon, just to put it through the paces- so far so good. We'll see if I can get on some ice still at some point this summer...
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:36 pm

Ben B. wrote:I hated the way the Couloir cut into my hips when I hung in it. The owner recommended a CAMP Blitz, ...was more comfortable than the Couloir for hanging.


I'm not surprised. The Couloir is a diaper style, while the Blitz is a swami and leg loop style, which is more comforatable for hanging belays. Glad you got a harness you liked.
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Damien Gildea » Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:58 pm

Ben B. wrote: Went down to my local shop today and tried on some harnesses...


Good thing to do. I would like to like the Couloir but it just doesn't fit me well at all. My old Alpine Bods fitted perfectly. I also don't like the way you need to hold up the diaper part to thread the waist belt section through. I recently got a Petzl Hirundos, which fits well, is more comfortable and not much heavier.
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Kahuna » Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:34 am

Been using one of these for over 200 days in the past four years on regular fast and "on the clock" guiding Alpine movers. Hasn't failed me yet. Been pulling many a 5.10 plus days in it and have taken numerous 10-15' zips in it as well. Very Comfy on hangers and carries plenty of Alpine/Rock goodies. Even has a chalk bag loop that I have used numerous times to attach a zip line on. It is after all, the Worlds lightest Alpine/Rock Belt out there and has been since it came out.

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They just came out with an adjustable one this year. It too holds the title of the World's lightest Adjustable Harness.Talked to some fellow guides that are using it and they have no complaints so far.

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Oh yeah, it packs down to the size of a softball at best. Can't beat it.
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:45 pm

A5RP wrote:It is after all, the Worlds lightest Alpine/Rock Belt out there and has been since it came out.


It is listed as 240g on their site. BD couloir is 230g. I guess BD couloir is a bit lighter. But Air does look more comfortable.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en ... r-harness/
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Kahuna » Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:51 pm

I would not take a 20-30 footer on the BD! It is not designed for it. The CAMP AIR is. And I have done so with the AIR.

That is the difference.
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Nitrox » Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:36 am

If you're taking whippers on technical rock or hanging in your harness the Couloir is not the harness for you. It shouldn't be a surprise either, it simply wasn't designed for that. But, if I need a bare bones harness that would only come out in an emergency or will get worn but not expected to get used, I'd rather have the Couloir than the Camp Air.
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:16 pm

Really did not like it some forty years ago. And I do not like it today. As Damien stated, can not stand the Diaper Style design.:
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Re: Alpine harness

Postby Ben Beckerich » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:59 pm

Still on paternity watch, I still haven't done any alpining. But I have been cragging with the new Blitz a few times... I haven't done any big-wall with it obviously, but I have done a couple fairly short hanging belays and it's probably just barely less comfortable than my Adjama was. For less than half the weight, 4 loops and 2 clipper slots, I'm sold.
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