AlexeyD wrote: ExcitableBoy wrote:
AlexeyD wrote:BD Bod - the regular, not the "alpine" version.
The BD Couloir is less than half the weight and bulk.
Sure, but it has only 2 gear loops, and no cushioning whatsoever, so have fun spending an hour in a I or even semi-hanging belay in it. I agree that for strictly alpine applications it may be the better choice, but in my interpretation the OP seemed to indicate that he's looking for something a bit more all-around, for which I think the Bod is better.
I owned a Chouinard Bod harness. The current BD Bod is basically the same design with a few more features. Some thoughts:
-The Bod is not a comfortable harness to hang in, regardless of the waist padding. This is due to the diaper style and lack of leg padding. The Couloir will likely be just as (un)comfortable, just considerably lighter, (by less than 1/2), a big consideration for alpine climbing. For me, light weight and function trumps comfort at hanging belays because on alpine climbs they are so rare. The OP specifically mentioned a harness for mixed/alpine climbing, not alpine climbing, and cragging, and aid climbing. For an all around harness I would recommend something else, definitely something with padded leg loops and not a diaper style.
-The 2 gear loop thing for me is no big deal. I generally only rack on my first two loops and my ice clippers, for which the Couloir has dedicated slots.
-For many years my alpine harness was a webbing only harness, but not a diaper style. I threw it away when Todd Skinner died. The lack of padding was never an issue, it was fine for short hanging belays because of the design (swami belt plus leg loops). It had no ice clipper slots or even gear loops. I used the gear loops on my pack.