Did not see info about this this posted elsewhere ...
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000142 ... 95444.html
I got to the paragraph:
"Within a few years of taking up the sport Mr. Robbins free climbed a route called Open Book in Tahquitz, in the mountains near Palm Springs. It was the hardest climb anyone had ever done in the U.S. (Trust me: It's still not an easy romp.)"
I then guessed the author, but checked the byline to confirm:
A short, enjoyable read. Thanks, Michael.