Ascenders, Dynamic Ropes, and Jugging

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mbmsfreerider

 
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Ascenders, Dynamic Ropes, and Jugging

by mbmsfreerider » Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:51 am

First off can ascenders be used on dynamic ropes? I feel like i heard somewhere that ascenders can hurt dynamic ropes but I can't find anything that says that. Something about sheeth slippage is what I seem to remember. If they can't be used on dynamic rope then the rest of this question is pointless.

I have a climbing partner that is just learning to climb but would like to try a multipitch with me. He has his eye on a climb thats a little harder than he can climb though. Its 3 pitches. So I want to know if he gets to a part where he can't climb could he just jumar up the dynamic rope.

Obviously it needs to be safe. So I figure he could stop every say 5 or 10 feet and clip a figure eight on a bite to his harness. so he would always have his harness tied into the end of the rope but also a figure eight that would limit a fall if he needed. he would untie the previous intermediate figure eight when he tied another. I guess I took this idea I from an article I saw about toprope soloing.

So if this is just stupid let me know. I know it might be easier with a trail line but for now I have one rope.

Thanks

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nattfodd

 
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by nattfodd » Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:24 am

Yes, you can ascend dynamic ropes, people do this all the time when seconding aid, for instance. Clipping into knots at regular intervals is also possible and an extra backup, though it will become a big pain if you are jumaring more than a few meters. Another possibility is to use a clove hitch instead and to simply slide the knot up every couple of moves.

That being said, you should consider whether this really is a good idea, since you don't seem very familiar with the technique, your buddy even less so, and he would need to rig the jumars correctly while you are at the top of the pitch and probably unable to help. At the very least, I would spend time practicing all sorts of scenarios at the gym/crag beforehand.

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mbmsfreerider

 
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by mbmsfreerider » Mon Jan 18, 2010 4:38 pm

Well I have heard of this being done but I wanted to make sure I understood this correctly. If we were to do it I would definitely practice it close to the ground first. So, No I havnt done this before but I dont plan on just improvising it a few hundred feet off the deck.

I will make sure it is smart and at the very least dial it in while close tot he ground.

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:10 pm

if its me, I have jugs, and ya its probably too hard, but to be fair my arm was hurt, and i was already pumped :P and in Europe I climb "hard very severe" to "extremly severe" Hell ya!

i have nothign usefull to contribute other then that I have no idea

-CS

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mbmsfreerider

 
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by mbmsfreerider » Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:19 pm

Is that how they rate climbs in europe? and no i didnt mean you.

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dioid

 
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by dioid » Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:15 pm

Another posibility to consider is helping your buddy by pulling him up. You can rig a very simple hauling setup using either BD ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 3, one biner and two feet of cord. You can check any self rescue book for exact details on how to do so.


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