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Aug trip to Mt blanc region

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Aug trip to Mt blanc region

Postby frosty23 » Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:08 pm

Hello, we're starting to plan a trip to the Mont Blanc region in July/Aug of 2008. We've got a lot of info and help with planning a trek around the area but want to add a little climbing in as well and just starting to make tenative plans.

We're looking for more rock type routes in up to about 5.11 in difficulty- not necessarily routes to summits of the big peaks. More into sun/rock than ice/snow. We live in the Sierras/Yosemite area and are competent rock climbers/ alpine rock climbers- but so so ice climbers and not that into being frozen on north faces for days on end.

From initial research, if weather is stable, something like the Hirondelles Ridge looks like something we'd enjoy- in terms of a high route to a summit- but we're also looking for
slightly less traveled, rock routes from 5.7 (if it's good) to 5.11 on lower ridges/formations/bumps in the 200-400 meter length. Fun routes, more about the climbing itself than the location or position, in the area with good rock and views -

Can anyone give just a few suggestions as a starting point?
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Postby frosty23 » Sun Nov 04, 2007 2:47 am

Sounds like a great crag to get started on when we get to Chamonix
thanks-

as we hike north to east to south are there more crags/ peaklets anyone really likes?
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Re: Aug trip to Mt blanc region

Postby gabriele » Sun Nov 04, 2007 7:02 am

frosty23 wrote:Hello, we're starting to plan a trip to the Mont Blanc region in July/Aug of 2008. We've got a lot of info and help with planning a trek around the area but want to add a little climbing in as well and just starting to make tenative plans.

We're looking for more rock type routes in up to about 5.11 in difficulty- not necessarily routes to summits of the big peaks. More into sun/rock than ice/snow. We live in the Sierras/Yosemite area and are competent rock climbers/ alpine rock climbers- but so so ice climbers and not that into being frozen on north faces for days on end.

From initial research, if weather is stable, something like the Hirondelles Ridge looks like something we'd enjoy- in terms of a high route to a summit- but we're also looking for
slightly less traveled, rock routes from 5.7 (if it's good) to 5.11 on lower ridges/formations/bumps in the 200-400 meter length. Fun routes, more about the climbing itself than the location or position, in the area with good rock and views -

Can anyone give just a few suggestions as a starting point?

first approach could be this range or this one
the Hirondelles (as all the routes to Grandes Jorasses) is a big route, much more engaging than a simple rock route
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Postby frosty23 » Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:08 pm

Thanks Gabrielle,

the MB de Tacul looks great- I was overwhelmed with where to start loooking-
sounds like you can get a ride up there and then just do some glacier/snow/ice walking to base

another quick question- on the south side of MB on the approach there is a granite shark fin that really stands out in photos- not on MB itslef but below it separting two glaciers- do you what that's called?

thanks again
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Postby gabriele » Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:31 pm

frosty23 wrote:another quick question- on the south side of MB on the approach there is a granite shark fin that really stands out in photos- not on MB itslef but below it separting two glaciers- do you what that's called?
thanks again


it is the Aiguille Croux, a fine summit with good rock routes normally used for training
or, maybe you were talking about the Aiguille Noire: its S ridge is one of the finest rock routes in the whole massif of M.Blanc
I think you should study a little this page
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