Damien Gildea wrote:These people also have the funds to fail and try again next year, as they often do. It's the people who bank everything on a budget operator and 'need' to succeed, who can't afford to fail, that are a worry.
I hate to say this, and I had to re-think the same way for Denali, after climbing it years ago, but the 'problem' is either certain unguided - but incompetent and inexperienced - climbers or, in the case of Everest, 'climbers' on budget trips with no guide and minimal Sherpa support. Skimping on 'luxury' / security is fine, I do it voluntarily, but the people doing it nowadays are people who do not have the experience or skill to do it, and don't know, or care, when they are in over their heads.
Nick Heil implies something similar in Dark Summit.
BTW, the folks bleating on about "money money money" shouldn't forget that first in line for all that "money money money" is the government of Nepal, whose budget depends on Everest climbing permits.