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Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby Bubba Suess » Fri Jul 26, 2013 3:47 am

Good to know. I had it on my radar to head over there sometime next month. I was thinking about trying to get to Ash Creek Falls from the south. Are you heading back up this way this summer?
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Fri Jul 26, 2013 3:52 am

Perhaps in a month and definitely in September. I'll let you know.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:57 am

Hi Chad, 5 of us are going to attempt Whitney Glacier over this weekend. Let me know if you are interested or just show up at North Gate TH on Friday night.

The pics from your trip are awesome. I wish I've climbed that icefall with you. I noticed on one of the pics you used pickets. Did you use any ice screws as well?
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:44 am

Thanks for the invite! Sorry though I can't go this weekend. Have fixed plans in the Sierra.

After I climbed the icefall I put one picket in for an anchor to belay the others just as a precaution since it was first time doing something like that for some of our group.

We had 4 ice screws but never used them. The glacier was only bare ice down low, and we didn't have time to play around and drop down in crevasses. Otherwise we could have used some. Maybe need to go back for that!

Bring back some pics of the glacier!
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:33 am

OK, I will take pictures and video.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 10:21 pm

Last Saturday I headed off to Shasta again to give Clear Creek route a go. I’ve descended the route before but hadn’t made a proper ascent of it. Ian initially waived off joining me, much preferring snow to talus and scree, but ultimately couldn’t turn down joining up to knock another route off. It was also a bit of a momentous occasion, being his first dayhike of the peak (from the lowest trailhead too) and my last of the major routes on the mountain. So now I’m left to tick off countless variations of every route.

Clear Creek spring was nicely surrounded by flowers and grasses.

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View of the route from the lower bit of the ridge at sunrise. Shastama Point is at the far left and Thumb Rock barely visible near the center. You can see the trail here is pretty decent.

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Ian and the unnamed point next to Shastama.

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Working our way up the use trail. The conditions were excellent, and we didn’t find it to be tedious at all.

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Looking back down with Mud Creek Canyon on the right.

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Shastarama Point and Mud Creek Glacier on the left, Thumb Rock and Konwakiton in the upper right.

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Summit plateau and upper Whitney Glacier from near the summit. I tried an alternate and more direct route up the summit, but it didn’t go without getting solid fourth class with wickedly loose 80 pound rocks for handholds.

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A couple of summit poses.

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And a very quick scree descent. We took our sweet time coming down and I think it was still just under 3.5 hours from summit to car.

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Me taking off…

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Looking back at the route.

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All in all it was a splendid day, much more enjoyable than I had anticipated based on fall accounts I have read. I was very pleased Ian was able to join. Also seems like most folks are taking this route now as opposed to Avalanche Gulch. If you pick the right locations I think Shasta is a great destination year round… this was also the 11th different month I’ve visited the summit (lacking only December now), and some of the best trips have been the September, October, and November outings.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Tue Sep 17, 2013 4:37 pm

mrchad9 wrote:Last Saturday I headed off to Shasta again to give Clear Creek route a go...from the lowest trailhead...

I don’t think this is an accurate statement; unless you meant Ian’s lowest TH.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:12 pm

clmbr wrote:
mrchad9 wrote:Last Saturday I headed off to Shasta again to give Clear Creek route a go...from the lowest trailhead...

I don’t think this is an accurate statement; unless you meant Ian’s lowest TH.

It is the lowest of the popular trailheads. I suppose Whitney Falls TH is lower but that is not even a maintained one.

Lowest trailhead that has a pit toilet onsite. I think that works.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Tue Sep 17, 2013 6:32 pm

mrchad9 wrote:
clmbr wrote:
mrchad9 wrote:Last Saturday I headed off to Shasta again to give Clear Creek route a go...from the lowest trailhead...

I don’t think this is an accurate statement; unless you meant Ian’s lowest TH.

It is the lowest of the popular trailheads. I suppose Whitney Falls TH is lower but that is not even a maintained one.

Lowest trailhead that has a pit toilet onsite. I think that works.

I’ve got it; now it works. :D
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Mt Shasta current conditions

Postby clmbr » Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:44 pm

There have been two storms over the last two weeks which accumulated some snow on the upper part of the mountain above 10-11K. The Clear Creek route is not anymore just a walk up through use trail and scree. The upper (steeper) part requires crampons and ice axe and some skills, especially on descent. I heard a water stream just below the summit and above the sulfur springs; somehow I did not care to check it out. This time it was much longer one-day attempt then my previous one. Otherwise, the weather was gorgeous.

The last party signed in to the register on 18 of September. I saw a tent at the higher camp on the descent. Hope they made the summit on Sunday.

Due to respect and appreciation for hard work of Mt Shasta Climbing Rangers my buddies paid the climbing fee in spite of the US Government shot down.

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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Oct 07, 2013 8:55 pm

Nice pics clmbr! Glad it worked out.

I was interested to know if the snow was enough to be consolodated enough for crampons. Thanks for the update.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Sun Oct 13, 2013 5:57 am

Here is the video from that trip. Ironically, it was my longest one day attempt on Mt Shasta. The descent was a very painful misery; I busted my nail toes (just cut off 50% of their length today).

Mt Shasta Clear Creek, 5th of October, 2013.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaXAoGs6yB4
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Oct 14, 2013 6:04 am

Are you Marco too?

Nice video! And you put your money where your mouth was... nice helmet!

So what happened to everyone else? Yeah I have discovered these cold fall/winter descents are not nearly so easy as the springtime conditions too!

So is this like 3 times up CC in the last 2 months?

And no product placement... LOL.
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:31 pm

mrchad9 wrote:Are you Marco too?

Well, ask Vitaliy, he knows every forum. :)

Nice video! And you put your money where your mouth was... nice helmet!

Thanks and thanks. This is my second helmet (I found a crack on the first one) which I bought years ago in Germany, not fancy but serves its purpose.

So what happened to everyone else? Yeah I have discovered these cold fall/winter descents are not nearly so easy as the springtime conditions too!

Most people have dropped out along the way. The three of them turned back at 2 pm as I suggested, even though they were just behind us quite high, just below the steep rocks. I had no doubt about one guy making the summit giving more time but the second one completely surprised me, so I was really happy for them. Even though it was a long trip with very painful descend, I had a lot of fun. :D

So is this like 3 times up CC in the last 2 months?

Is it really important? :roll: This was my first season I’ve ever done this route and, for whatever the reason, started liking it, perhaps because it was supposed to be just a walk up?

And no product placement... LOL.

Oh now, not for free! :o
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

Postby clmbr » Mon Oct 21, 2013 7:08 pm

Current Conditions of Clear Creek Route:

Between now and another dump of new snow the Clear Creek route may be hiked/climbed without touching any snow except on the plateau (and that may be avoided). Stay right on the trail all the way to Red Rock (yes the trail is there all the way, just don’t lose it) and then go up the "steep rocks" navigating thorough or zigzagging in between snow patches. No crampons needed at all.

If you desire to traverse the snow slope to the right of the Red Rock, I would definitely recommend crampons, ice-axe and (just in case) self arrest skill.

I think I've finally become tired of this route.

BTW, the toilet paper was in the restroom again after reopening the US Government.
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