Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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artrock23

 
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Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by artrock23 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 2:59 am

As Laura ('Princess Buttercup') pointed-out, the "Beautiful Sierra Spring Conditions" thread has run it's course, as we head into Summer.

I'll start the ball rolling with a Mt. Lamarck TR...

As some of you may know, in mid-April I attempted this trip, only to turn back below Upper Lamarck Lake, due to dangerous snow conditions. This time would be different! :)

Friday morning, I headed-out from North Lake parking area. I made it to Upper Lamarck Lake by 10:30, set-up camp, ate lunch, and headed up towards Lamarck Col to do some recon, so as to be familiar with the route for the next days climb.

Upper Lamarck Lake, with Mt. Lamarck (13,417ft) in the background
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Campsite near the lake. If you look to the left of my pack, I did bring my 'camp stool' (aka Bear Vault). One never knows when a bear might show up, and it's rude not to offer a guest a seat (especially since he wouldn't be getting anything to eat)! ;)
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The 'cross country' route -actually a unmaintained trail- to Lamarck Col is a strenuous 3 miles (give or take).

A quarter mile from the lake, 38 switchbacks take you up this steep rocky slope
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Reward: a great view of Upper Lamarck Lake
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Lamarck Col
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After making the approach to the col, I turned right and headed for Mt. Lamarck's southeast slope.
It's roughly 600ft of climbing to gain the summit plateau, mostly class 2 talus, with the final 150ft class 3 boulders.
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Once atop the summit plateau, a problem presented itself: which of the five visible high-points was the true summit? According to the Tom Harrison map I brought, the one I was standing on (to the southeast of the North Couloir) should be it. Search as I might, though, there was no trace of a summit registry. Looking to the north, I noticed two separate summit blocks that were both obviously higher than where I was.

Maybe it's one of these?
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After failing to find the registry, I contented myself with lunch and a couple more pics.
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Mt. Darwin and Mt. Mendel from the summit
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The total time from my base camp to the summit and back was seven hours. By the time I got back, I was exhausted. Much respect to those who do the peak "car to car" in a day. :eek:
This morning I made the leisurely descent back to North Lake, had lunch in Bishop, and drove home. Fun trip!

On a more sober (and sombre) note, here's hoping that overdue hiker Adam is found safe. If I have the facts correct, he's 19, has no map (!), is unfamiliar with the area (Piute Pass area), and has been missing since June 16.
Last edited by artrock23 on Mon Jun 24, 2013 6:01 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by mrchad9 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 3:32 am

artrock23 wrote:The total time from my base camp to the summit and back was seven hours. By the time I got back, I was exhausted. Much respect to those who do the peak "car to car" in a day.

From the looks of it, all you might need is to lighten that load with a new ice ax...

Like this version under 9 ounces...

image.jpg
ax
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by artrock23 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:04 am

mrchad9 wrote:
artrock23 wrote:The total time from my base camp to the summit and back was seven hours. By the time I got back, I was exhausted. Much respect to those who do the peak "car to car" in a day.

From the looks of it, all you might need is to lighten that load with a new ice ax...

Like this version under 9 ounces...

image.jpg


:lol: Well, I have ice tools that are a lot lighter than my axe, but yes, I could use a newer (and lighter) one. I wish that the Grivel Air-tech came in lengths longer than 66cm. Do they think that all climbers are under 5'6"?

BTW, what is the pack you're using in that pic?

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by mrchad9 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 5:24 am

That's an REI Stoke 29. It does pretty well for an extra lightweight overnight if you really cut down the gear. Or a full size daypack. I'm looking for something a little better but have yet to find any comparable contenders. I use that pack more than any other.

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by Princess Buttercup » Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:37 pm

Love that you counted the switchers up from the lake. ;-)

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by artrock23 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:20 pm

Princess Buttercup wrote:Love that you counted the switchers up from the lake. ;-)


To be candid, I was so fatigued by the time I descended to the switchbacks that counting them was an exercise I used in order to stay focused! :lol:

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by Deb » Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:29 pm

Yea, it's Summer alright. Heather and I spent all day in gloves and jackets to climb Mt Agassiz on Sunday. 20 mph winds, low clouds and probably below 40 degrees. Too cloudy and windy at Bishop Pass to enjoy an evening with the moon. Lenticulars were forming all afternoon, it just wasn't cute. After dinner and reprieve in the tent, we packed up and hiked out with headlamps. Moon was too low on horizon to enjoy. boooo

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by ExploreABitMore » Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:35 pm

Hehe, thanks for starting this thread. After enjoying all the photos on the Spring thread, I was sad to hear it was coming to an end ;-)

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artrock23

 
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by artrock23 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:46 pm

Deb wrote:Yea, it's Summer alright. Heather and I spent all day in gloves and jackets to climb Mt Agassiz on Sunday. 20 mph winds, low clouds and probably below 40 degrees. Too cloudy and windy at Bishop Pass to enjoy an evening with the moon. Lenticulars were forming all afternoon, it just wasn't cute. After dinner and reprieve in the tent, we packed up and hiked out with headlamps. Moon was too low on horizon to enjoy. boooo


Photos, please (Mt. Agassiz is on my shortlist) :wink:

Yeah, I could see the clouds forming as I drove home. By the time I got to Adelanto, it was actually cool enough to drive with the windows down (odd for Summer).

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by tb00957 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 7:35 pm

Are the burgshrund on N Pal and Thunderbolt posing problems yet? Snow bridges still there? Thanks!

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by Burchey » Mon Jun 24, 2013 7:56 pm

artrock23 wrote: :lol: Well, I have ice tools that are a lot lighter than my axe, but yes, I could use a newer (and lighter) one. I wish that the Grivel Air-tech came in lengths longer than 66cm. Do they think that all climbers are under 5'6"?



That Air-tech evo is sweet, I'm looking for the shortest one on sale. Are you using a trekking pole as well? If so, go shortest/lightest axe you can, and use the pole for support. Trust me.

EDIT: when I say lightest, I should qualify that - consider your needs. If you're just needing something to arrest while slogging snow, those aluminum dealios will be just fine. If you anticipate needing to actually swing it - getting purchase in hard snow and ice, something like the BD Venom or Air-tech evo is more the ticket.
Last edited by Burchey on Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by ROL » Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:02 pm

mrchad9 wrote:From the looks of it, all you might need is to lighten that load with a new ice ax...


Probably cheaper to cut that blue tarp groundcloth down. It must be fun backstroking in bed when it actually rains, but hey, I guess one of those (new $$) old–fangled air mattresses will keep you afloat. Cowabunga duuude.

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by Deb » Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:12 pm

artrock23 wrote:
Deb wrote:Yea, it's Summer alright. Heather and I spent all day in gloves and jackets to climb Mt Agassiz on Sunday. 20 mph winds, low clouds and probably below 40 degrees. Too cloudy and windy at Bishop Pass to enjoy an evening with the moon. Lenticulars were forming all afternoon, it just wasn't cute. After dinner and reprieve in the tent, we packed up and hiked out with headlamps. Moon was too low on horizon to enjoy. boooo


Photos, please (Mt. Agassiz is on my shortlist) :wink:

Yeah, I could see the clouds forming as I drove home. By the time I got to Adelanto, it was actually cool enough to drive with the windows down (odd for Summer).

Actually I don't find this weather odd at all, I swear it snows every 4th of July!
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by Burchey » Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:59 pm

mattski4 wrote:
Burchey wrote:
artrock23 wrote: :lol: Well, I have ice tools that are a lot lighter than my axe, but yes, I could use a newer (and lighter) one. I wish that the Grivel Air-tech came in lengths longer than 66cm. Do they think that all climbers are under 5'6"?



That Air-tech evo is sweet, I'm looking for the shortest one on sale. Are you using a trekking pole as well? If so, go shortest/lightest axe you can, and use the pole for support. Trust me.

EDIT: when I say lightest, I should qualify that - consider your needs. If you're just needing something to arrest while slogging snow, those aluminum dealios will be just fine. If you anticipate needing to actually swing it - getting purchase in hard snow and ice, something like the BD Venom or Air-tech evo is more the ticket.


Why don't you just get a whipit, dipshit?


You're up to 4 now? Not bad. I am impress. Are you upset because you finally realized you don't matter?

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

by Burchey » Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:07 am

mattski4 wrote:I wanna be more like you, an outstanding member who everybody loves and respects. Can you teach me how to be more like you?


I'll write you up some directions in OR

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