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Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby cdog » Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:47 am

Saturday (6/22/13) was pretty nice in Yosemite NP:
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby artrock23 » Tue Jun 25, 2013 7:34 am

Burchey wrote:
artrock23 wrote: :lol: Well, I have ice tools that are a lot lighter than my axe, but yes, I could use a newer (and lighter) one. I wish that the Grivel Air-tech came in lengths longer than 66cm. Do they think that all climbers are under 5'6"?



That Air-tech evo is sweet, I'm looking for the shortest one on sale. Are you using a trekking pole as well? If so, go shortest/lightest axe you can, and use the pole for support. Trust me.

EDIT: when I say lightest, I should qualify that - consider your needs. If you're just needing something to arrest while slogging snow, those aluminum dealios will be just fine. If you anticipate needing to actually swing it - getting purchase in hard snow and ice, something like the BD Venom or Air-tech evo is more the ticket.


Well, I want the best of both worlds, of course. :D

Mostly, I use my axe for balance/walking-stick/self-arrest when on snow, glaciers, or couloirs. Sometimes, i'll bring my ice hammer so as to have two tools for swinging (not that I profess to a great deal of experience in ice climbing). Now I discover -oh joy- that the Air-tech Evo comes in 74cm. Perfect for my needs.

BTW... used 48cm Air-tech at Gear Exchange in Bishop (I think 48cm is the shortest they make).
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Deb » Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:15 pm

Any recent beta on Split conditions from Red Lake? Crampons? Axe? Hope not ...
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:26 pm

artrock23 wrote:
Burchey wrote:
artrock23 wrote: :lol: Well, I have ice tools that are a lot lighter than my axe, but yes, I could use a newer (and lighter) one. I wish that the Grivel Air-tech came in lengths longer than 66cm. Do they think that all climbers are under 5'6"?



That Air-tech evo is sweet, I'm looking for the shortest one on sale. Are you using a trekking pole as well? If so, go shortest/lightest axe you can, and use the pole for support. Trust me.

EDIT: when I say lightest, I should qualify that - consider your needs. If you're just needing something to arrest while slogging snow, those aluminum dealios will be just fine. If you anticipate needing to actually swing it - getting purchase in hard snow and ice, something like the BD Venom or Air-tech evo is more the ticket.


Well, I want the best of both worlds, of course. :D

Mostly, I use my axe for balance/walking-stick/self-arrest when on snow, glaciers, or couloirs. Sometimes, i'll bring my ice hammer so as to have two tools for swinging (not that I profess to a great deal of experience in ice climbing). Now I discover -oh joy- that the Air-tech Evo comes in 74cm. Perfect for my needs.

BTW... used 48cm Air-tech at Gear Exchange in Bishop (I think 48cm is the shortest they make).


Haha, suit yourself, m'brother. I very much appreciate this tip on the 48cm, going to call them when they open. Was it an adze, or do you recall?
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby artrock23 » Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:34 pm

Burchey wrote:Haha, suit yourself, m'brother. I very much appreciate this tip on the 48cm, going to call them when they open. Was it an adze, or do you recall?


It was an adze. Kinda pricey for a used axe, but it's a consignment item, and it's been there for awhile (I saw it when up there on my last trip in May)... i.e. maybe they're flexible on price.
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Burchey » Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:16 pm

artrock23 wrote:
Burchey wrote:Haha, suit yourself, m'brother. I very much appreciate this tip on the 48cm, going to call them when they open. Was it an adze, or do you recall?


It was an adze. Kinda pricey for a used axe, but it's a consignment item, and it's been there for awhile (I saw it when up there on my last trip in May)... i.e. maybe they're flexible on price.


Dang it - it's not the 48cm, almost 60cm actually. She measured. THanks anyway. I'd pay $95 if it was in good shape, that thing is sweet.
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Bob Burd » Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:25 am

I thought I had the Holy Grail of photos - unicorn and rainbow, but it turned out to be only a bear when I got a better look:

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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Daria » Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:20 am

We ran into this black bear on the trail in Grand Teton NP @lupine meadown trail this past Sunday.

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I walked up closer to it on the trail to get a better pic and it hissed at me. Little did I know that directly behind me, its 2 cubs were right there. There was a total of 3 cubs.

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then we saw another bear a few minutes later. Lots of bears in the area, I would not hike around there solo *sean -cough-cough-o'rourke-cough*
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Burchey » Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:49 am

Cubs were nearby???

Porque no, Dios?!? Porque no?!?!
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Bob Sihler » Fri Jun 28, 2013 2:57 am

Daria wrote:I walked up closer to it on the trail to get a better pic and it hissed at me. Little did I know that directly behind me, its 2 cubs were right there. There was a total of 3 cubs.


Behavior like that gets bears killed. Please don't do that anymore, at least not in Montana and Wyoming, where most other than the car tourists in Yellowstone are a lot more sensible about bears. Keep it in Yosemite Valley where everyone and his brother chases after every bear in sight no matter the personal risk or the stress placed on the animal.
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby toxo » Fri Jun 28, 2013 3:17 am

Shitler is right, but those bears are so... fucking... cuddly. I so wanna kiss their bellies. Bet they'd be super cute ripping my face off, daaaaaaawwwwww.
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby mrchad9 » Fri Jun 28, 2013 4:14 am

Bob Sihler wrote:
Daria wrote:I walked up closer to it on the trail to get a better pic and it hissed at me. Little did I know that directly behind me, its 2 cubs were right there. There was a total of 3 cubs.


Behavior like that gets bears killed. Please don't do that anymore, at least not in Montana and Wyoming, where most other than the car tourists in Yellowstone are a lot more sensible about bears. Keep it in Yosemite Valley where everyone and his brother chases after every bear in sight no matter the personal risk or the stress placed on the animal.

It's a bit different in California I guess. They are yet another game animal here... like elk, pronghorn, rabbits, fox, mink, wild pigs, squirrels, raccoons, bighorn sheep, and deer. They kill them all out here. I've seen many tragically walk up to deer in the national parks, only to have it slaughtered outside the park in the fall.

I've never had a bear/raccoon shish kabob. No doubt someone out there has.
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Deb » Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:12 am

Deb wrote:Any recent beta on Split conditions from Red Lake? Crampons? Axe? Hope not ...

Since this thread is off-track, I'll answer my own question.
Why no, Deb, you will not need snow gear, however you will cross a snow tongue about 300' long before the notch, but it's nicely consolidated and cupped. And don't fret about the 3rd Class chute, you can easily by-pass the snow along the right wall. Have fun sweating your ass off on the way to Red Lake and be thankful there are no skeeters. Enjoy your 12-hour dayhike to Split! :D
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby artrock23 » Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:23 am

Deb wrote:
Deb wrote:Any recent beta on Split conditions from Red Lake? Crampons? Axe? Hope not ...

Since this thread is off-track, I'll answer my own question.
Why no, Deb, you will not need snow gear, however you will cross a snow tongue about 300' long before the notch, but it's nicely consolidated and cupped. And don't fret about the 3rd Class chute, you can easily by-pass the snow along the right wall. Have fun sweating your ass off on the way to Red Lake and be thankful there are no skeeters. Enjoy your 12-hour dayhike to Split! :D


Yes, let's keep this thread on topic!

Since you were just up there, Deb, how is the drive to the trailhead? 4x4 required, or would my F250 be okay?
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Re: Beautiful Sierra SUMMER conditions

Postby Deb » Fri Jun 28, 2013 2:24 pm

artrock23 wrote:Since you were just up there, Deb, how is the drive to the trailhead? 4x4 required, or would my F250 be okay?

Art, you'll be golden if your bed isn't empty. We went up in an FJ Cruiser and it crawled over rocks like a champ, didn't need 4WD. Use the GPS way points listed here on SP and you'll have no problem. It took less than an hour.
Lots of rockfall in all chutes, so tread lightly. Just moments after we exited at the top of chute, it had a splendid display of basketball boulders ping-ponging their way down.
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