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Best California moderates

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.

Postby fatdad » Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:51 pm

It's occured to me that no one's mentioned Snake Dike (5.7) yet. Totally classic, amazing summit.
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Postby Nate D » Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:39 pm

Fresno Dome's south face has a bunch of good 3-4 pitch moderates. Much info online and on this site. Included also in Slater's new NorCal guidebook.
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Postby MichaelJ » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:19 pm

Love the Yawn pic, way to sandbag someone into some moderate 5.9 valley ow. The last pitch, though, is probably the best 5.7 anywhere.

Anyone mention Royal Arches yet? That's pretty adventurous for the grade (see any issue of ANAM), especially if used to approach one of the North Dome routes for a nice day out.
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Postby The Chief » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:29 pm

MichaelJ wrote:Chief,
Love the Yawn pic, way to sandbag someone into some moderate 5.9 valley ow. The last pitch, though, is probably the best 5.7 anywhere.

Like I said Mike, the term "moderate" is relative and so very open for interp....
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Postby TheOrglingLlama » Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:05 pm

The Chief wrote:Here are some that none shared that I love taking "Moderate" folks on...

Remember to observe the Gully Code of Conduct :twisted:
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Postby The Chief » Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:26 pm

TheOrglingLlama wrote:Remember to observe the Gully Code of Conduct :twisted:


Each season brings different conditions to all Couliors in the Sierra.

The pics are just for ref.
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Postby Dave Daly » Sun Feb 21, 2010 3:42 am

Yep, moderate is a a broad term. But for the masses, here are my recommendations:

- South Face (5.7), Moro Rock, Sequoia NP
- South Crack (5.9), Moro Rock, Sequoia NP
- Duet (5.8 ), Chimney Rock Spire, Sequoia NF
- Wall Of Early Morning Fright (5.9), Sequoia NF
- Sparkler (5.9+), Little Baldy, Sequoia NP
- Elephant Walk (5.7), Tollhouse
- Wandering Taos (5.9), Tollhouse
- A Little Nukey (5.9-), Courtright Reservoir
- Three Feathers (5.9), Lost Eagle, Shuteye Ridge
- Power To The People (5.9), Lost Eagle, Shuteye Ridge

And that's just a few on the west side of the Sierra.
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Postby The Chief » Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:44 am

Premiere Route
Premiere Buttress

South Crack

Moro Rock

Granite Basin

Chip off the Ole Block
Pine Creek

Mt. Russell
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Postby Diggler » Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:59 pm

Whitney E face, Williamson NE ridge, Lone Pine N ridge, Matterhorn Pk N arete
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