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Best First California Climb

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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:10 pm

nellis wrote:So your recommendation for someone with rock climbing experience is to hike a road with 80 mph winds?

:roll:

Better than have them solo climb a "Norman Clyde" 4th Plus Class screed Sierra Alpine granite route in 60-80mph winds without any intro experience to the region. These prevailing late Fall SWerlies affect the entire Eastside Sierra region and are notorious for upwards of 140mph plus ridge top sustained winds that time of the year.

The late opening of Reds Meadow/Devils Postpile area (due to the clearing of 100's of blown down Jeffrey Pines from last early Nov's windstorm) is evidence of that prevailing weather scenario.

But then you already knew that......
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:10 pm

nellis wrote:
A5RP wrote:Better than have them solo climb a "Norman Clyde" 4th Plus Class screed Sierra Alpine granite route in 60-80mph winds without any intro experience to the region.

True. Actually if unpredictable weather is a concern then something like Mount Conness, North Peak, or Whorl Mountain in Yosemite would be excellent options.


Sure would if you are in the mood to fight your solo way up any classic route on these peaks with a prevailing Fall time SW wind of 60-140 mph's on the ridge tops.


Weather not being the issue at all really. Rather the notorious Fall time SWerly winds that blow pretty constantly from late Oct through late Dec prior to and then directly after a cold frontal passage. A fact that unless you live here and deal with on a constant basis, understand.
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Princess Buttercup » Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:49 pm

Hiya, dman!

So, for what kind of climbing are you looking? Are you looking to do routes or peaks or both? Are you just looking to get familiar with the Sierra? What sort of approach are you looking at?

Yes, the weather can be quite variable that time of year, but who knows?

Don't mean to pry, but I think if you gave us (me?) some more information about these sorts of things I might be able to suggest some fun.

Hell, in late November/early December you might be able to get in on some of this silliness (with proper safety equipment and considerations, of course):

http://youtu.be/00ZLEqJ_Aak

(Watch for the fish at around 5:30 or so...)

The shoulder season of Oct/Nov can be tricky, but I'm sure there will be something to do! :)

-L
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:53 pm

MooseTracks,

I would be interested in either peaks or routes. And I would say I am interested in getting familiar with the Sierra before I do anything to crazy initially. Get a feel for what I am getting myself into before I tackle a day hike of Tyndall or Williamson.

I hike a lot and climb. Like I said, I have never mountaineered because, well, I live in Ohio and the tallest point in Ohio is Campbell Hill which is only 1550 feet. I have done stuff like the Grand Canyon during the winter, but that is as close as I can get to something similar to the Sierra. My long term plan is to tackle all the 14ers in Cali. For the first few months I am there I would just like to get to know the Sierra. Maybe tackle a smaller peak, and get a feel for what this goal all entails.

Thanks for any help you can provide MooseTracks!
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:30 am

3Deserts,

I appreciate you informing me about the horrendous dishonor I have done to the state of California and I will never utter those horrible two syllables ever again. My apologies to all Californians. I hope that everyone is as welcoming as you have been!

Dman
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby KathyW » Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:55 am

October - November= short days, colder temperatures, and at least a dusting of snow in the high country. You'll have to wait until close to the time when you're ready to head out to make plans - it's just too early to know what will or will not be possible.
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Kahuna » Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:25 am

3Deserts wrote:However, as a California native, let me respectfully nip this in the bud now: never again utter or write "cali" as long as you live.


This is a joke, right????


Absolutely NO dishonor dman. I have absolutely NO idea where 3Deserts pulled this from.

Where are you headed btw dman? Edwards??
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Princess Buttercup » Thu Jul 19, 2012 3:43 pm

Santa Maria is a lovely part of the state, dman! Welcome! I hear there's some good climbing just up the road in San Luis Obispo, too!

You know, you might start by getting Secor's guide to the Sierra (esp if you are going to be around for a while):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/089886 ... JR9VPQFDR6

It's a good starter resource, although sometimes the beta makes me go Hmmmmm... ;)

Mo' betta beta on the pages here on SP, mountainproject, etc.

Bear Creek Spire is an incredibly fun climb, but I would not want to be playing on it with a little snow (even last year, we had a dump in October that closed Tioga Pass, but then it reopened shortly thereafter.)

I think Agassiz is a great intro peak, really. 5-6 miles on trail to Bishop Pass, then a short walk to the base and mostly Class 2 (you can find 3 if you want) to the summit, 2K above the Pass. Incredible views into Dusy Basin, Paslisades, across to Leconte Canyon; approach hike is up one of the prettiest drainages around here, IMO.

As for climbing, October can be great for the Alabama Hills, with Mt. Whitney beckoning high above.

What about ice?

Like I said, not much to do around here... :)

And Pieter, you crack me up!

-Laura
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby ElGreco » Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:52 pm

If you are looking for a solo hike/mountaineering experience, the E Ridge of Mt. Russell (Class 3) is a classic scramble with outstanding views.

If you are looking for a classic, easy rock climb, the SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak (5 pitches of 5.7 or less) will give you great rock and views, and an unbeatable photo opportunity if you climb nearby Eichorn's Pinnacle.

Enjoy!
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Marmaduke » Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:35 pm

I agree with 3deserts, NO Cali, just like you don't go into San Francisco and call the city "Frisco"
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:38 pm

A5RP

Edwards was my first assignment but it was recently changed to Vandenberg. But I cannot argue, being on the coast and all.

Laura

Funny you should mention that book cause I just got it in the mail! What kind of climbing is at Obispo? And where is the Agassiz located in the Sierra? Both sound like great suggestions.

Elgrecco

Thanks for the suggestions. Will snow be much of a factor on the trek in or on the climb in any of your suggestions?
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Kahuna » Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:47 pm

Marmaduke wrote:I agree with 3deserts, NO Cali, just like you don't go into San Francisco and call the city "Frisco"



You funny White Anglo Saxon Boys.

I'm Super close Bro's with some very hardcore "Real Cali Natives" and they insist on identifying as "Cali Sordeno's" or "Cali Nordeno's".

Guess that is the difference between cultures. Those that are true natives and those that claim to be natives.








I am a suedo immigrant from Espana and came over here with my parents when I was 20 months old. I could never claim to be a "Cali Native".



DMAN... Whatta do in the USAF????
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby butitsadryheat » Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:23 pm

Dman, can you let us know when there will be twilight launches from Vandenberg so I can watch from my house inland? Those are rare, and I have missed the last couple of them.

Agassiz is off the Bishop Pass Trail, about 5-6 miles in, just above the pass. From SLO, it is about 6 hours. You would take Hwy 166 or Hwy 46 inland to Hwy 99, then to Hwy 58 east to Hwy 14. The head north when you reach Mojave, and it is about 3-3.5 hours north to Bishop. From there, it is about 10 miles or so west on Hwy 168 to the South Lake TH. Beautiful alpine area.

Welcome to Cali ;)
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Re: Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:29 pm

A5RP

I will be firing rockets into space as a 62E. Good ole developmental engineer. Decided on that as a career cause I can more easily have a family.

Dman
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