FortMental wrote:If conditions are so sketchy that uncertainty dictates bringing a sleeping bag (and a tent, and a stove), then you may as well stay in the comfort of camp until conditions stabilize.

Conditions were perfect when we left Camp Muir. Our concern was that Rainier is notorious for rapidly changing conditions.

redneck wrote:

FortMental wrote:If conditions are so sketchy that uncertainty dictates bringing a sleeping bag (and a tent, and a stove), then you may as well stay in the comfort of camp until conditions stabilize.

Conditions were perfect when we left Camp Muir. Our concern was that Rainier is notorious for rapidly changing conditions.

Yeah, but you were probably well-aware of the forecast, and maybe it was a bluebird day?
I'm not saying you can always put your faith 100% in the forecast, but, if the forecast called for a window of good weather, and your instincts told you the same, ie. "perfect conditions," then you'd probably be fine ditching the bag, etc. behind.
Yvonne Chouinard said, "if you bring bivouac gear, you'll probably use it."
So, sometimes when conditions are right, it might be better to go lighter and faster. Safer.

redneck wrote:

FortMental wrote:If conditions are so sketchy that uncertainty dictates bringing a sleeping bag (and a tent, and a stove), then you may as well stay in the comfort of camp until conditions stabilize.

Conditions were perfect when we left Camp Muir. Our concern was that Rainier is notorious for rapidly changing conditions.

Some routes are obvious carry overs, ie Liberty Ridge, and often the Kautz, as well as many others. Muir/DC is usually not as you generally descend the Cleaver. Mount Rainier IS notorious for quickly changing weather, a fast moving storm 6 years ago changed the mountain from blue-bird skies to a deadly storm in 2.5 hours, unfortunately my climbing partner was caught in that storm and perished in an avalanche. Never take Mount Rainier lightly, it creates its own weather, and quickly too.

i have never carried a sleeping bag on any winter summit bids on any mountains. only time was when i did, it was Liberty Ridge which i carried everything over and down. there will be different philosophy on this issue. safety is defined differently by different people. remember that speed is also safety. a lot of people choose light and fast over sleeping bag/extra weight as a form of precautionary measure.

i always pack my bag with me on summit bids. every time. a 2 lb down bag wont make or break your climb, but it could very well be the difference in you coming back. in all seriousness, meteorologists cant get the forecast right for places with relatively stable weather, let alone a mountain. an ounce of prevention, yadda yadda yadda.... break a leg and spend the night at 13,500 feet and you'll be glad you carried that little bag of feathers with you.

dskoon wrote:

redneck wrote:Conditions were perfect when we left Camp Muir. Our concern was that Rainier is notorious for rapidly changing conditions.

Yeah, but you were probably well-aware of the forecast, and maybe it was a bluebird day?

I was new to Rainier, but I learned in a very short time the forecasts I saw meant nothing. So far as I could work out, there were three distinct weather bands on the south side: the weather at Paradise, the weather at Camp Muir and the weather above Camp Muir. The forecasts we saw before we started were for Paradise and had nothing to do with what was happening higher up (luckily for us). And while it snowed every day we were at Camp Muir, above Camp Muir the weather was lovely. Meanwhile, we could sit outside the shelter and watch filthy weather happening down in Paradise.

We didn't know what the summit day would be like until we went outside at midnight, the weather was so variable (this was first week in June).

For what it's worth: Rainier Mountaineering used to keep a sleeping bag (or two) in a cache above Disappointment Cleaver. It's possible that some of those climbers in the hut at Camp Muir were climbing with RMI and were instructed not to bring sleeping bags. Myself: I bring extra down jacket(s) and a bivy sack (but never a bag) if things look kinda sketchy. If I think I'm gonna need a sleeping bag to finish a climb, I'm gonna wait for better weather.

redneck wrote:

dskoon wrote:

redneck wrote:Conditions were perfect when we left Camp Muir. Our concern was that Rainier is notorious for rapidly changing conditions.

Yeah, but you were probably well-aware of the forecast, and maybe it was a bluebird day?

I was new to Rainier, but I learned in a very short time the forecasts I saw meant nothing. So far as I could work out, there were three distinct weather bands on the south side: the weather at Paradise, the weather at Camp Muir and the weather above Camp Muir. The forecasts we saw before we started were for Paradise and had nothing to do with what was happening higher up (luckily for us). And while it snowed every day we were at Camp Muir, above Camp Muir the weather was lovely. Meanwhile, we could sit outside the shelter and watch filthy weather happening down in Paradise.

We didn't know what the summit day would be like until we went outside at midnight, the weather was so variable (this was first week in June).

Ah, ok. Good explanation of your experience and the different weather bands.
I think the weather stabalizes a bit on the mountain in July, though, as you say, it can still make its own.

Haven't brought a sleeping bag, but always bring enough warm clothes and lightweight emergency bag that I could spend the night if need be (e.g., you might not need the heavy parka while climbing, but could be a lifesaver if you had to hole up).

Also, it might be wiser to consider bringing extra navigational aids (gps, wands, etc.) to be able to get down in bad weather, rather than bringing everything you need to spend the night.

Always a balancing act between bringing everything you might conceivably need, but which increases the chances you'll need it.

P.S. Good on you for not taking it lightly and being prepared, not that hard to bring a little extra.

Jesus Malverde wrote:For what it's worth: Rainier Mountaineering used to keep a sleeping bag (or two) in a cache above Disappointment Cleaver. It's possible that some of those climbers in the hut at Camp Muir were climbing with RMI and were instructed not to bring sleeping bags..

RMI has their own shelter. It's the connex across from the public shelter by the a-frame ranger station. I doubt that any RMI clients are using the public shelter.