Boots for Denali

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langer318

 
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Boots for Denali

by langer318 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:29 pm

I currently have Spantiks and while I really like them I've found my feet getting cold with them while ice climbing and when moving though deep snow or standing around camp cooking on cold days (around 0F) even when standing on a foam pad. I typically have cold feet so I'm trying to decide if its worth it to go with the Oly Mons or Millet Everests over the Spantiks for my Denali trip in May. I know most advice says that Spantiks with an overboot are fine for Denali in May/June but I'd rather not chance losing toes to save a few $$ so I'm wondering what people think.

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Dane1

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by Dane1 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:18 pm

Those are some seriously cold feet to not stay warm in Spantiks. But to answer your question yes the Oly Mons are a BIG step up in insulation and they still fit and climb well. Weights of each is within oz. Down side is the sole on the Oly Mons is super soft and not very durable.

I hate dealing with over boots and crampons and have cold feet myself. Which is why I have the Oly Mons as an option to Spantiks or my other dbls for Denali.

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radson

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by radson » Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:35 pm

Im currently ordering some new LS Oly Mons

These guys ex VAT generally have good prices and I have used them in the past.

http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/lasportivaolympusmonsevo-p-2009.html

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langer318

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by langer318 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:21 pm

Dane I should probably be more descriptive when I say cold. I’ve only been seriously cold cold in them once and that was at -30 in camp standing around making breakfast. As long as I’m moving in the Spantiks my feet have been warm, it’s when I stop that they’ve become a bit numb, not dangerously so but uncomfortably so. I’ve started using vapor barriers between a lightweight liner and midweight hiking sock and that’s helped significantly. But I’m wondering if it’s a sizing thing too. The liners have been molded but they are still a bit snug. I’m usually a size 10 and they are 44s. I can’t really get a bigger sock in them as there is no room. Would switching to intuition liners be an option for Denali or will it completely wreck the feel of the boot? I have no issue spending the $$ if I have to for my specific needs just trying to educate myself more before pulling the trigger.
For the Oly Mons is there a good place to work with in sizing? I was thinking of using Zappos since you can order several pairs and the shipping is free roundtrip. I don’t know of a place I can trust to go in person to try these on in the Northeast.

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Re: Boots for Denali

by 96avs01 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:10 pm

langer318 wrote:I don’t know of a place I can trust to go in person to try these on in the Northeast.


The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, NY is showing them in-stock...

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Fletch

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by Fletch » Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:15 pm

http://www.everestgear.com/mionespevbos.html

get an 8000m boot for Denali. cuts the legwork out. ha! no, but really, you dont want to screw around with overboots and spantiks with a liner wont be warm enough by themselves - i think they will - but you'll be chancing it...

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langer318

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by langer318 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:30 pm

Ok so I'm convinced to go with an 8000m boot now the debate is between the Oly Mons and the Everest's. From what I hear the Everest’s are heavier, a bit warmer and tougher than the Oly Mons. They are both in the same price range so I'm wondering which will be better; does it really come down to fit? I'm concerned if I go with the Oly Mons and test them out in what’s left of winter here in the northeast I’ll wear them down significantly on the exposed rock I'm sure to encounter.

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radson

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by radson » Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:46 pm

IMHO, fit on Everests and Oly MOns etc are not as critical as other type of boots within reason. As long as your feet fit with a bit of wriggle room for foot swelling and some decent socks then all is good. These are not leather boots that need a breaking in period. They are fairly stiff to start with but then should ease up fairly quickly.

Fletch, thats a good price for Millet Everest. Almost as cheap as buying in Kathmandu!

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langer318

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by langer318 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:53 pm

Good to know radson. I'm not blister prone by any means so I'm not too worried about that and I assume I can always wear a thicker sock\sock combo to take up some volume if need be. My feet do tend to swell but most of my experience with that has been on high mileage days 20+ miles. I'm not sure if that'll happen on Denali since I doubt I'll be doing that much mileage.

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Dane1

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by Dane1 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:38 pm

Lang, I use Zappos myself. Easy returns. I had wondered if your boots were too tight. -30C should be easy in the Spantik for most. Tight boots and no physical movement is going to be hard in any boot at that temp..

Spantiks are easy enough for me to use on Denali without over boots if the weather is even remotely decent and you are paying attention. At least they are with my time battered feet. But I got the Oly Mons just to see what I think. Weight won't be an issue between the two. Certainly durability will be.

I think the Baruntse liner is a better option than the Intuition...and I have and have used both in the Spantik. Either will eliminate the need for a VBL as the optional inner boots both are. Same liners fit my Oly Mons as well. Intuition will make the boot feel clumpy and it will be stiffer. The Baruntse liner will not change the feel of the boot and it will offer a better fit. You might find a well molded Baruntse liner will fir your shells even better and give you soem more room in the boot. Mine did. FWIW I use the same size Oly Mons as Spantiks or Baturas or Trangos Extremes.

For Denali I really think the boot choice betwen Spantik and Oly Mons depends on what route and what style of climbing you'll be doing. On any personal trip these days I would likely take the Spantik and a Baruntse liner. I was asked recently to be part of a guided trip on the Cassin. Which is one of the reasons I started thinking Oly Mons because of the extra time I knew I'd be standing around. It is a hard lesson to learn.

In general my opinion is the 8K Meter boots are over kill on Denali even in early May. Baruntse, Phantom 6000 and the Spantik are all well proven boots you can summit Denali in without over boots if you know what you are doing on that mtn. Over boots suck with crampons...don't care who tells you other wise. Mixing less experienced climbers with over boots and crampons is disaster prone at the very best. When required...and only above 17K generally on Denali even more so.
Last edited by Dane1 on Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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radson

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by radson » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:45 pm

Over boots suck with crampons...don't care who tells you other wise. Mixing less experienced climbers with over boots and crampons is disaster prone at the very best. When required...and only above 17K generally even more so.


Absolutely agree!

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langer318

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by langer318 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:56 pm

Thanks for the input Dane, I’ve read you blog and know you’re the expert.

It was -30F I was in not that it make much difference at that temp :) and once I started moving my feet warmed up within an hour and were ok.

I have a feeling I can get away with my Spantiks and be fine on Denali if I put in a Baruntse liner. I spent 12 days on the Kahiltna and the Spantiks worked out great for me climbing some of the smaller peaks. But it’s the unknown that bothers me, having never been on Denali I'm not sure what to expect and I'd prefer to overkill then underkill and suffer the consequences.
I'm going guided on the West Butt so I'm assuming I’ll be standing around quite a bit more than I’m used to waiting for other people.

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Dane1

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by Dane1 » Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:26 pm

Lang, the trick to Denali (in my opinion) is if it is colder than your Spantiks allow without over boots, it is just as likely you shouldn't be out in the weather anyway.

Lots of people get to 17K and decide for some silly reason they HAVE to go to the summit in terribly cold and windy weather. The kind of weather that freezes feet and faces. I don't. And I have never used an over boot on Denali because of it. Never needed one. I've also been turned around at 17 with clients because I wouldn't risk my health or theirs. Over boots wouldn't have made a spit of difference in that decision btw.

If you can imagine how hard it is to get a overboot and crampon fit right in those kind of frigid conditions it is not hard to imagine why there are so many fatal falls on the easy ground above 17K on the west butt.

If I was still guiding full time I wouldn't allow over boots on my clients. And I'd likely specify the Spantik/Baruntse liner combo just to save folks feet some over all abuse. I would how ever ask that they use basket front crampons and not clip fronts. Again it just saves having a badly fit crampon up high.

Something like this....in the Steve House photo below from Alberta.

Image

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by Vitaliy M. » Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:24 pm

Lang, the trick to Denali (in my opinion) is if it is colder than your Spantiks allow without over boots, it is just as likely you shouldn't be out in the weather anyway.


Probably the best advice on the whole thread.

You do not want to go up to the summit if winds are over 20mph and the weather is shitty. Although some people may go up, if they know what they are getting themselves into and are ready for it.
Also, be fit. Being acclimated/hydrated and moving quick does great for staying warm.

I summited in Spantiks without overboots. And I would say my feet get cold easily. One of my toes was pretty cold and went numb for a bit, but I regained feelings in it on the descent. One of the reasons for that was that we left early, before the day really warmed up, AND I only wore a base layer and patagonia r1 jacket for the first 1000ft of ascent from 17K camp (so my core temp in general was decreased).

If you get overboots you should be for sure safe if you are going up there in ok weather. If you have a load of cash you can get 8000M boots and not worry about it at all. Good luck.

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Dane1

 
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Re: Boots for Denali

by Dane1 » Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:51 pm

Vitaliy!

Nice work on Dana's W.A , dude :)

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