I know there have been previous forum posts but it's hard to sort through multiple pages so I am going to dare and ask for recommendations again. Thank you in advance for taking the time to help with this.

I am looking for a boot to meet the following criteria:
1. Warm enough to wear while snowshoing, ice climbing, in snow belaying
2. Not too rigid to be uncomfortable on long approaches and in snowshoes
3. Good in alpine climbing, beginner to intermediate ice climbing
4. $300-$450 price range
5. Semi-auto crampon compatible (I think that's correct terminology, I want straps on front not a bar)

My typical use will be in a setting where I will hike in or snowshoe in with an approach of 3-6 miles and often 2000-3000 feet elevation gain. Then will do some mixed rock/ice climbing and hike out. Occasionally would camp overnight in the snow. Would rather not pack in a separate set of boots.

Thoughts? Questions?

Location: 90% of activity will be in the Glacier National Park area, elevations of 6000-9500ft.

If you're talking about spring/summer mountaineering where you have to hike in warmish conditions and then want to deal with snow, crampons etc on the route, check out Salewa's line of mountaineering and alpine approach boots. I recently bought their women's Rapace GTX, which are insanely light and comfortable compared to any of my other heavy-duty boots. They're crampon compatible and I expect they'll do great for moderate alpine ice and snow routes in spring/summer. For winter waterfall climbing, I doubt they'll work but I'm going to try them when the ice comes in, just in case.

I climbed a 5.8 dolomite slab route in these boots, carrying a rope on my back. That gave me a lot of confidence in them for scrambling.

They're not insulated, so I wouldn't wear them for winter stuff where I might be standing around. I'll wear them all winter for hiking, snow-shoeing etc. But Salewa has lots of warmer boots available and I'll probably go back to them when I want to replace my (waterfall) ice boots.

http://www.salewa.us/

I have a pair of the Rapace boots. Just used them on a climb. Started out on trail and then hit snow above 6000ft. Used them with microspikes. They are a great boot, but my toes were quite cold and so I'm looking for something warmer. I had a pair of the Salewa Guide Pro insulated boots last year but the mechanism for adjusting them stripped out in one use. Love the way the Salewas fit though.

wow, did Salewa replace the ones you stripped out?

I had my Rapaces in snow from about 8k to 10,500 last weekend. I had summer hiking socks on and my feet weren't warm but I don't mind too much if I can keep moving. It's stopping to belay that does me in.

For ice-climbing, I wear Kayland M11s. They're super warm and pretty light but not what you're looking for.

ywardhorner wrote:If you're talking about spring/summer mountaineering where you have to hike in warmish conditions and then want to deal with snow, crampons etc on the route, check out Salewa's line of mountaineering and alpine approach boots. I recently bought their women's Rapace GTX, which are insanely light and comfortable compared to any of my other heavy-duty boots. They're crampon compatible and I expect they'll do great for moderate alpine ice and snow routes in spring/summer. For winter waterfall climbing, I doubt they'll work but I'm going to try them when the ice comes in, just in case.

I climbed a 5.8 dolomite slab route in these boots, carrying a rope on my back. That gave me a lot of confidence in them for scrambling.

They're not insulated, so I wouldn't wear them for winter stuff where I might be standing around. I'll wear them all winter for hiking, snow-shoeing etc. But Salewa has lots of warmer boots available and I'll probably go back to them when I want to replace my (waterfall) ice boots.

http://www.salewa.us/

My go-to boot is the Salewa Raven. I have VERY warm feet, so I can do negative temps with warm socks and no boot insulation. Light, great design for rock climbing, blister free guarantee, semi auto compatible, built in gaiter that's comfy, and I even use them on summer trips and they are the only things on my feet...approach to summit. 5.6+ I'll put my rock boots on, but I have done 3-4 move sequences in the Ravens at the 5.8 level and they felt very solid. I slipped off a log into a stream with the ravens on combined with my MH Warlow pants. TWICE I went in calf deep. and both times the pants combined with the GoreTex and internal gaiters on the boots kept my feet bone dry. I could go on. Did I mention they're lighter than many backpacking boots? I own no stock in, nor do I have any vested interest in Salewa beyond being able to buy another pair of boots from them. 150 miles now and they look practically new.

Agree with all of the above posters about Salewa being a good choice. Had the Raven, now I'm using the leather version of it called the Salewa Condor for a little more durability and warmth. Have done 20 mile days hiking in both pairs multiple times with no trouble.

Another new Salewa option is the Blackbird, which is an insulated version of the Condor.

Salewa gave me the option of replacement or refund. No complaints with their customer service for sure. I was just leary of a boot with a mechanical component from that point forward so I took the refund. I will have to look into those new insulated Salewas.

Neither of the Salewa Rapace, MTN Trainer, Raven, or Condor are insulated. Salewa recommended I look at the Snow Trainer, but they don't appear to be crampon compatible. And I couldn't find any info on the Salewa website regarding a Blackbird boot.

I have been wearing LOWA Mountain Expert GTX for several years now. They are lightly insulated, so they are good on glaciers and in cold weather or snow, although I do wear plastic boots for the all snow peaks (Shasta, Rainier, and winter climbs. If you have a med volume foot these are very comfortable.

Here is the link for the Salewa Blackbird: http://www.salewa.com/product/mountaineering/blackbird+evo+gore-texman

It appears to be available only from European retailers for now, from examining a the first pages of a google search.

One option that you could order in Europe is the La Sportiva Nepal Trek. Insulated like the Nepal Evo we have in the US but without the toe welt, and a sole more similar to the Trango S Evo.
Link to La Sportiva Product Line in Europe: http://www.lasportiva.com/mountain.html?&L=1

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but does anyone have any experience climbing moderate (WI3 and less) ice in the Condors? Looking for something that can handle hikes in the Northeast winter, moderate alpine stuff out West in the summer, and if I could also use them on warmer ice climbing days up in the Catskills that would be a nice bonus.

Of course if anyone has a pair of LS Nepals in 46.5 that they're looking to get rid of for a good price, that would work too.

robertjoy wrote:I have been wearing LOWA Mountain Expert GTX for several years now. They are lightly insulated, so they are good on glaciers and in cold weather or snow, although I do wear plastic boots for the all snow peaks (Shasta, Rainier, and winter climbs. If you have a med volume foot these are very comfortable.

+1 couldn't agree more. Have the same GTX and a summer hiking boot from LOWA, and I'm completely satisfied.

But I think a major point is omitted here, as if the only question were the quality of the boot. At least as important are the details of our feet. Thus "med volume foot" above is a help.

Boot lasts vary among makers, and sometimes also among lines from the same boot-maker. Find a good shoe expert at a good store. Try on many different boots to find the best for your foot. And take these discussions of brands as guidelines to stick to the quality and price you choose, not as across-the-board endorsements.

Asolo Eiger GV

http://www.omcgear.com/asolo-eiger-gv-boot-men-s.html


Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX

http://www.scarpa.com/rebel-pro-gtx

Get a pair of Asolo Summits.

I love mine.

Lightweight warm and great technical boot. I'm amazed how cheap you can pick them up for...