Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

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drManhattan

 
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Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by drManhattan » Sun Oct 05, 2014 4:44 pm

Hi guys,

My original plan at the end of this year was to climb Aconcagua starting Dec 21. However in September I was offered an opportunity in Mexico which I took which effectively ended that notion, so I flew to Mexico last month and that is here I currently am.

Now the opportunity in Mexico hasn't really turned out as anticipated. My thoughts lead back to Aconcagua, and would it still be possible for me to not only climb but actually get to the summit this season.

Considering my conditioning is non existent right now (quite unfit) I am trying to come up with a plan over the next 2-3 months which would give me the best chance of a successful summit. My current thoughts are as follows:

- Oct 23 Fly back to Australia, train twice per day (I wont have a job to worry about) for 4 weeks, grab my gear (and buy some new stuff) and fly back to Mexico.
- Nov 23 In Mexico climb Nevado de Toluca, Itza and Orizaba, fly to Ecuador
- Dec 8 Climb Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimbarozo in Mid Dec
- Dec 25 Rest up over Xmas and NY
- Jan xx fly to Argentina and attempt Aconcagua.

Is my thought process out of whack here? I have done 4 high altitude summits previously (Island Peak, Kili, Elbrus, Huayna Potosi) but I am thinking I am either pushing things to fine to get into shape or I will just overload myself and end up exhausted before starting Aconcagua.

Would love some thoughts and suggestions on what I have just blurted out :)

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drManhattan

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by drManhattan » Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:20 pm

hill wrote:Way to make a big deal about it. If you are out of shape then go for a few runs before you hit it, or hike some smaller peaks.Remember its just a cardio climb.


It is a big deal for me because it will be the hardest climb I have done.

OK maybe I am over thinking it then? I may as well climb the Mexican Volcanoes while I am here, skip Ecuador and just go for Aconcagua.

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Jesus Malverde

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by Jesus Malverde » Sun Oct 05, 2014 9:14 pm


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GuyNC

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by GuyNC » Mon Oct 06, 2014 3:05 pm

Where in Mexico are you? If Mexico City then your best bet might be to stay there since there are good training areas nearby. Within D.F. there is Desierto De Los Leones and Ajusco national parks with elevations of 8k-12k feet and trails to hike/bike/run. Then as the time gets closer tackle the bigger peaks like Orizaba.

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Chris Simpson

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by Chris Simpson » Mon Oct 06, 2014 4:56 pm

Honestly, the Ecuadorian Volcanoes are way more technical than Aconcagua. Some people don't even take an Axe. I would not even focus on them. These mountains won't allow you to build up the cardio you need. Sure, you'll be somewhat acclimated but valuable cardio / strength training hrs will be taken up. You don't just want to climb Aconcagua. You want to do it and enjoy it! That means hard work. 2 - 3 months is definitely enough time if you train hard. Focus on steep trails with a weighted pack. You'll also need to incorporate a lot of core. Put it this way, if you can plank for 6 min you're in great shape. Ed Viesturs can hold this position for for 4 min. The way I trained for Orizaba was big single day hikes / runs. Meaning 40 mile 19k gain day hikes. We threw in a few trips to the Sierra and camped at 12k on the weekends and blazed through Orizaba in 9.5 hrs hut to hut with no prior acclimation days. Not a speed record by any means but we had 0 problems. I am currently training for Denali and will incorporate hauling a 160 lb sled up a 45 degree slope when California decides to deliver its "Snow" to us. This along with a lot of core and leg strength training will give me an edge over people who might complete the climb but suffer physically while doing it.

You've been higher than me and have more backpacking experience than me. I'm sure you'll do just fine.

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ChristopherFranklin

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by ChristopherFranklin » Wed Oct 08, 2014 4:13 pm

Are your knees OK? I have a great beginers running work out that I started about 2 weeks ago. No better training than running.

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ScottyP

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by ScottyP » Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:48 pm

6 min plank seems a bit of a stretch to measure conditioning. My daughter, a D1 gymnast, can not hold a six minute plank!

I did Aco with 4 months training mostly on hills with a 50#pack (2800' vertical over 3 miles 2x week) and a little strength training at the gym, squats and deadlifts mostly. It can be done in less if you hit it hard!

Chris, why so heavy with the sled ? I trained for Denali with a 32" tire behind my pack for 1000' 2x a week and felt great with the heavy pull to camp 1. (The only real heavy sled day on Denali)

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Chris Simpson

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by Chris Simpson » Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:11 pm

Scotty,

I need a little extra "Umph" in the legs. The exercise will also force me to use all 4's and perform a true mountain climber instead of simulating the movement at the gym. Quite the strength training work out which is why I'll only do this 1x a week.

Denali and Aco? Congrats :)

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ScottyP

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by ScottyP » Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:31 am

Thanks Chris. I've been fortunate to get up Denali, Aconcagua, Kili and Vinson among many others. You in CA ?

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Chris Simpson

 
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Re: Change of plans, limited training for Aconcagua help!

by Chris Simpson » Wed Oct 29, 2014 5:14 pm

Scotty,

I am in CA. Unfortunately I live in Southern California where snow is almost mythical. I pan to get out to the Sierras, Shasta, Rainier and Adams leading up to Denali. Maybe Hood but leaning toward not. You folks up in Santa Rosa have it made. Close proximity to Shasta, Lagunitas & Russian River. Sour heaven.. Cheers!


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