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Climb similar to Matterhorn?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Postby phlipdascrip » Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:38 pm

AD-, UIAA III-, 1,200m (3,940ft) elev. gain, long and exposed, intricate route finding they say.
http://www.summitpost.org/route/159962/h-rnligrat.html
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Postby gordonye » Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:12 pm

Mount Moran in the Tetons? It has a 5000 feet high south face.
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Postby mvs » Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:36 pm

NW Arete of Mt. Sir Donald at Rogers Pass, BC. Preferably with a bit of snow on it.

Sir Donald will be notch tougher because you don't have a profusion of fixed gear on the way up. On the other hand the descent is easier if you use the rappel route. Downclimb the route to keep it "Matterhorn like."
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Postby SpiderSavage » Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:15 pm

In SoCal you could work out on the North Side of San Jacinto. Snow Creek or better yet climb one of the ridges: 10,000 ft elevation gain. It's not as pretty as those listed above but it's a sure workout.
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Postby Palisades79 » Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:32 pm

El Capitan ,Angel Wings ,Tehipite ,etc. Winter ascents available,no charge.
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Postby plume » Sat Dec 05, 2009 6:39 pm

I'm kinda thinking the East Face of Whitney would be comparable. That is, if you did it twice in one day and there were fixed ropes on the "hard" sections and you put all the people using the trail, Babel up the languages, and dump them on the route. That's pretty much the Hornli from what I remember of it.

'Course, if you want to get authentic, you'd need a tramway to Lower Boy Scout and a hotel/hut by the shores of Iceberg Lake. Ten dollar beers optional.
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Postby granite4brains » Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:41 pm

plume wrote:I'm kinda thinking the East Face of Whitney would be comparable. That is, if you did it twice in one day and there were fixed ropes on the "hard" sections and you put all the people using the trail, Babel up the languages, and dump them on the route. That's pretty much the Hornli from what I remember of it.

'Course, if you want to get authentic, you'd need a tramway to Lower Boy Scout and a hotel/hut by the shores of Iceberg Lake. Ten dollar beers optional.


ahhh, mountaineering at its finest :lol:
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Postby Diggler » Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:39 pm

While I've just done some preliminary route info perusing about the Hoernli ridge, it seems like it might compare with the NE ridge of Williamson. Extremely long, knife-edged in sections, stomach-in-your-throat sections of extreme exposure, but not extremely technical.
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