Craig Peer wrote:
I don't know if you have ever used one of these for rapelling. I have and it's scary because to rap down.... you pull the lever back and you freefall intill you release the lever and you stop instantly. BAM right on the anchor!!!!!!!!!!
That's not necessarily true - you can get a smooth rope feed and stop, although it is tricky and takes practice. However, relying on a knot jammed against a rappel ring ( without that backup carabiner ) was the cause of the accident - not the use of a Cinch. And was an admitted mistake ( see the Supertopo thread ).
Your comment on carabiner brake rappels is incorrect too - they are perfectly safe when done correctly - I used them for many years, and wouldn't hesitate to use one now. Everyone should know how to do one in case they drop thier ATC !!
Craig please don't get me wrong. The carabiner brake I referred to wasn't "the carabiner brake rap" using 6 ovals... rather it was using the "brake bar" from a cavers rap deal, or a baby angle, and just one oval.... when I started climbing this was a hot topic because several known fatalities had occurred. When I first went to the Valley, the fellows I started climbing with threw mine into the Merced River and instructed me on how to rig the 6 biner system, the munter and the dulfersitz all good simple methods.
All methods are OK as long as you don't overlook the obvious flaws, in this case "the knot that went past the ring"
I follow that to the "root cause" - IMHO- rapping on a "belay devise" down one strand only, takes out the basic redundancy of having both lines in your hands that go around the anchor.
After I tried rappelling on a grigri I was shocked
that folks would even consider it a valid use of this tool (IMHO).
I don't like to use stuff that is ..... "tricky and takes practice" to use.
But call me old and stuck in my ways..... you wouldn't be the first.