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Climbing in Thailand: ThaiTanium Wall and Ao Nang Tower

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Climbing in Thailand: ThaiTanium Wall and Ao Nang Tower

Postby jspitzer » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:28 am

On December 13th, Rachel and I escaped the drizzle and rain of Seattle, WA in search of tropical weather and sport climbing. After more then 24 hours of travel we arrived to the sport climbing mecca Tonsai and Railay Beach.

The stories and pictures don’t lie about this tropical paradise being lined up with incredibly steep limestone cliffs directly off the beach and crags with short approaches. Endless fruit smoothies, Thai food and beer are easy to access while still being tied into the rope.

For me details and pictures you can check out http://www.snowrockandiceadventures.com/index.php?page=post&id=28

Here is a trip report from two different multi-pitch routes we climbed on separate islands. I highly recommend both routes!

ThaiTanium Wall on Ko Yawabun


ThaiTanium Wall offers an amazing 4 pitch route “To The Members” rated 6c, 6c, 6c+, 6b (5.11b, 11b, 11c, 11a). Rachel, Dylan, Rich and myself jumped at the opportunity to climb this classic route and hired “Cleft” our boatman to take us there. After the 45min boat ride to this hidden island, Cleft pulled up below the over hanging old fixed ropes, which we jumared (30ft) out of the boat to gain the start of the route.

I lead the first pitch, which was an amazing 6c for just over 30meters. The scenery was mind-blowing and the climbing was unreal. Rachel lead the second 6c pitch which was incredibly steep on this heavily featured overhanging wall. I lead the third pitch which had a short crux right off the belay followed by some small technical holds to some step tufa climbing. Rachel took the last pitch to the top of the wall on incredibly sharp limestone rock.

We rappelled down the route and back into the boat (for most of us). Rachel decided to jump from the top of the fixed ropes into the water. On the way back we encountered a typical afternoon thunderstorm and torrential down pour.

Orange Chandeliers on Ao Nang Tower

We hired our trust worthy boatman Cleft for a short 10min boat ride from Tonsai to Ao Nang tower. I teamed up with Rich from Australia while Dylan climbed with Mariyene from Quebee. The three pitch route “Orange Chandeliers” is rated 6b, 6b+, 6c (5.10d, 11a, 11b). The route comes into the sun after 1pm so we had to move quickly, so that we did fry in the heat. Cleft was able to get us close to the tower, then we scrambled up a 4th class ramp section with fixed lines that we traversed to access the first pitch.
The first pitch was steep tufa climbing with great rests for 30meters. The next pitch was short and slightly overhanging. The long third pitch had several crux sections including delicate moves on shape rock near the top. Two rappels landed us back in the boat and before 1pm we were in Tonsai drinking beers!

Both routes require two 60m ropes to rappel, 15 quickdraws, a belay device, and a swimsuit to jump into the ocean afterwards.
Attachments
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Ao Nang Tower, the route is on the left hand skyline
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Dylan jugging fixed ropes out of the boat on ThaiTanium
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Jonathon rappelling Ao Nang Tower Photo Dylan Taylor (tayloralpine.com)
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Rachel on ThaiTanium Photo Dylan Taylor (tayloralpine.com
_DSC2498.jpg (937.07 KiB) Viewed 1152 times
jspitzer

 
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mrchad9

Re: Climbing in Thailand: ThaiTanium Wall and Ao Nang Tower

Postby mrchad9 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:41 am

Nice report and photos!!!
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