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Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

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Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Mountain_girl » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:02 pm

Anyone knows of any California-based guides that charge less than 500$ per 2 day climb (per person)?
Me and my friends are thinking of going up the Avalanche Gulch next summer, but have little experience with glaciers and probably would need some guidance, but sth more for a student budget. Any ideas?
Thanks a lot!
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Tonka » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:08 pm

I get emails from SWS Mountain guides and their 2 day guided climb is $450. I've heard good things about them.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:16 pm

There are no glaciers on AG. Consider a 1 day crampon and self arrest class, you should be in good shape to ascend yourself after that.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Deleted User » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:18 pm

Cannot go wrong with my friends Chris and Jenn

http://www.shastaguides.com/?gclid=CMrljP7OzaQCFQpV5wodlhl7Bg

Tell em Dingus Milktoast sentchya and you're on a budget haha. Also tell em I said 'hey!'

Image

On the summit of their eponymous peak.

Cheers
DMT
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Mountain_girl » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:42 pm

Thanks so much for these comments, they are very helpful!
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Cy Kaicener » Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:39 pm

I have not used this guide but remember the website
http://mountshastaguide.com/robin.htm
http://mountshastaguide.com/index.htm
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:46 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:It was my first route on a mountain, and first mountain "climb/hike" ever. You really do not need a guide for this route, common sense will do. I went there without knowing what crampons/ice axe are (used a single trekking pole all the way), didn't know why people use a ground pad- under my unrated borrowed sleeping bag, brought 1 liter of water for the whole climb (and had only about 200ml/no food for the summit "climb)."
If you know how to set up a tent, will not continue on if weather gets s*** and know how to use ice axe/crampons you should be fine. People make it look more complicated than it really is. There will also be about 10-50 people attempting it during weekends. Route finding is not an issue. Good luck, it is a beautiful place.

Thats the key though. A 1/2-1 day class would be a cost effective way to cover that, or head out to Lassen NP or Tioga pass before your climb and practice some of those things on you own.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Mountain_girl » Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:34 pm

Yeah, some practice before that or a short class sounds like a great idea! Thank you, I can't wait :)
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby powderjunkie » Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:48 pm

SMG is a great option.

AG can be the easiest climb on the perfect day, but can also be completely dangerous depending on weather, time of year, rockfall, how many people on route and your experience level.

Don't underestimate it, esp. the elevation.

I'd get some ice axe/crampon experience, take a day course, even it that is in Tahoe and practice on smaller peaks like Lassen or Round Top before doing Shasta. Do a winter snow camp and you'll be better prepared for Shasta. And it will be more enjoyable.

With some experience, you could skip the two day course and use that dough to buy gear. :)

Take Vitality's post with a grain of salt. Lots of hikers to it this way and I think they get pretty lucky when considering all the things that can go wrong.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:55 pm

You gonna take that Vitaliy?

:D

But actually, if he told the whole story I think his first trip there was less than pleasant.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Mountain_girl » Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:00 pm

hehehe :) I would like to hear that story ;)

Thanks powderjunkie for your perspective.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby Mountain_girl » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:04 pm

Amazing views!!!
Thanks Vitalyi for this detailed and honest report. I very much appreciate it! We have done a lot of hikes and climbs in various conditions including higher elevations but not much on snow-covered peaks, that is why we felt like taking a class or a guide. If navigation is not an issue and it is a snow-covered route without carcasses and the like, I think practicing with our new gear or taking a short class before Shasta would be a great idea. But, as powderjunkie mentioned, we will take this mountain seriously for sure! :)
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:21 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:Hazards may include: [and then he listed a bunch of stuff that pretty much happened to him on trip one.]

One more hazard on Avalanche Gulch. PEOPLE!

Memorial Day weekend in 2003:

Image

If you camp at Helen Lake, bring earplugs!
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby rhyang » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:41 pm

I've had excellent experiences with Shasta Mountain Guides. Their one day basic mountaineering seminar is probably what you're looking for.

It's kinda how I got started. I was already a backpacking and snowcamping enthusiast by the time I got into it, so after a couple of ice axe / crampon trips in the Sierra I did AG solo.

That led to glaciers. Glaciers led to ice climbing. Ice climbing led to mixed climbing. And well, nothing good can ever come of mixed climbing :lol:
Taaaake !
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta - Looking for a guide

Postby 1000Pks » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:45 pm

AG is called the tourist route for good reason, it's pretty tame. My first time I did get blown off the mountain, solo with no crampons/axe. Couldn't believe it was that hard till I got to the ice (August). it took me 3 tries before I finally made it, but then on good days it was so easy! Course $500 pays for a 2010 budget road trip mostly, so it's an easy call for me.

Used to be I led SC trips with all welcome at their own risk, but they got rid of that long ago. I was contemplating my 5X but I think I'm too old and slow, now. No 7,000' gain in a day for a long, long time.
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