mvs wrote:You are already answering your own question. I think it's important that you do it or don't do it based on your own counsel. Don't ask us!
The Chief wrote:The following stuff has kept me alive and availed me many successful trips, SOLO, in the past 25 years! Ironically, I am out the door to do one after I write this...
-DO NOT attempt any goals that are not well within your comfort zone and current climbing ability range for your first solo gig! Plan for a challenge that will lead you and end in a successful trip. This may entail something at least two grades below your current abilities.
-Leave a full itinerary with a topo map of your trip with someone close and then DO NOT deviate from it.
-Readdress your thought process to think positive things about the climb prior to your departure.
-On the approach and during the climb, focus on the task at hand and filter out any "noise" that is not condusive to your success. Remain confident, but, if during your climb, that sixth sense kicks in and tells you to back off because something just doesn't feel right... DO SO without any guilt!
-Have fun and stay alive... the rock/ice ain't going anywhere and you can always return another day to climb again!
Dingus Milktoast wrote:When I've soloed haard water ice I wear a harness and thread one or two daisies so they're ready to clip into the tools. This affords me the confidence to stop and wiggle a shell out of the pack for example, with some additional security.
Wear a helmet.
Don't climb under or past and over other parties (both sins I have committed). You get bombed or you do the bombing on folks who were ostensibly there first, not cool.
My bro kevin on North Peak
Be comfortable with your rest-steps and confident your cramps won't twist off.
And of course you are 100% reliant on your gear, sometimes with only a 1/4 inch of steel betwixt you and your maker
Kevin doing this magic
One of the most anxiety-filled climbs I ever did was this same couloir on a cold fall day.... the ice on the upper half of the route dinner plated badly - every single throw of the tools or kick of the points dislodged a plate sized saucer. I had to climb the steeper right side of the gully as a roped party was on the left side, a party which I in turn bombed badly.
I was glad to be done that day.
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