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Need Beta on climbing The Hogsback on Mt Hood

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Need Beta on climbing The Hogsback on Mt Hood

Postby Paulyk1972 » Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:15 pm

Hello-
Heading out west and planning on climbing the Hogsback on Hood with the girlfriend. I am an avid rock climber over here in the Gunks in NY and am a AMGA certified guide so am very good with ropes and rock climbing but have limited experience in mountaineering out west. I was guided on Rainier 6 years ago and have climbed Gannett Peak in WY and a few of the Teton peaks. Do I need snow pickets(anchors?), gear? I was going to bring about 80 feet of rope just in case, a couple people said we can just use insulated, waterproof hiking boots - is this true? We will be there at the end of July so any info would be great and much appreciated.
Thanks
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Re: Need Beta on climbing The Hogsback on Mt Hood

Postby dskoon » Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:08 pm

+1 what Shuzz says. . .

Just was up there this weekend. The route is in fine shape. Coming in late July, there will definitly be less snow, maybe more rock/ice fall(I saw very little on the actual route this weekend, though heard it coming down nearby), but, with the amount of snow up there, chances are you'll be fine. Crampons and ice axe. Steep up at the top, but doable. Sketchiest part, imo, is coming down, about the first 50 yds. or so. Some people faced the mountain; I did a bit of both, facing as well as sidestepping down when I felt comfortable doing it. Lots of steps kicked in the snow.
Leave early, descend early to avoid ice and rockfall. Turn around if the shit starts coming down while you're still going up. You don't want that girlfriend, or you, pelted in the face. And, like Shuzz says, avoid the tempting high traverse. Its not worth it. Head down from the Hogsback to the Hot rocks area, and then up. You'll see the bootpack from the Hogsback. Pickets not really necessary unless you're doing something else, like the Pearly Gates, which is steeper and icier. But again, whatever you/she are comfortable with.
Best o' luck!
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Re: Need Beta on climbing The Hogsback on Mt Hood

Postby Paulyk1972 » Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:52 pm

Great info guys - thank you very much! That helps out tremendously.
Funny stuff twoshuzz!!
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