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Common Pin Sizes

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Common Pin Sizes

Postby Dave Daly » Mon Mar 13, 2006 11:25 pm

Getting ready to build the "rack of iron" and wanted some advice from "nailers" about what are the best common sizes to consider. Common sense tells me stick to medium angles and LA's. Eveything small should be mid-size blades. But experience speaks volumes regarding this and I'm still a nube to the walls.

Any help? Craig? Bruce? DMT? JD? Rob?
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Re: Common Pin Sizes

Postby JScoles » Mon Mar 13, 2006 11:34 pm

Dave Daly wrote:Getting ready to build the "rack of iron" and wanted some advice from "nailers" about what are the best common sizes to consider. Common sense tells me stick to medium angles and LA's. Eveything small should be mid-size blades. But experience speaks volumes regarding this and I'm still a nube to the walls.

Any help? Craig? Bruce? DMT? JD? Rob?


Not a good long term idea as a good set of cams will cost less in the long run. not to mention that they weigh less, cause no damage, are easier and more flexable to place and in some cases much stronger. If you really want to become Mr. unpopular in you local area just start hammering pins in the wall.

Besides the obvious 'retro-cool' factor what do you want to use them for?
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Postby Dave Daly » Mon Mar 13, 2006 11:43 pm

Thanks for the advice. But I'm aware of where I should and shouldn't place pins in this day in age. However, when it comes to obscurities and non-trade routes, pins are handy for an FA or even a second or third ascents on walls. I've got a large free rack and have used it for clean aid. So, thanks....but the question remains.

What I meant as far as being a nube to walls is a reference to big walls....not common climbing areas.
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Postby HandjamMasterC » Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:20 am

Besides the obvious 'retro-cool' factor what do you want to use them for?


Plenty of Yosemite big walls still required some pins. Maybe hand placed, maybe hammered, but they are still needed. We don't seem to see and A3 or A4 routes on your list of signed summit logs either........................ :?
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Postby Dave Daly » Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:33 am

post deleted
Last edited by Dave Daly on Tue Mar 14, 2006 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby ksolem » Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:42 am

I'm not a prolific wall rat, but I do recall when doing Mescalito, on El Cap, that these long straight "knifeblade" cracks (too thin for the tiniest cams and too parallel for nutting) went fast and easy with camhooks. I wouldn't get on any kind of nailing route with two pairs of those baby's.
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Postby JScoles » Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:29 pm

hi Dave

Wasn't sure what you were going to use them for. Your best bet would be to check out the route you want to climb and see what is needed and buy as you go. You will after a few years get a rather large rack of them.

Though my rack is rather small now as all I have used in the past few years were some knifeblades and a extra long lost arrow all during winter ascents. These sort of cover off what regular pro can't cover.

Most of the Big-wall types I know use the occasional angle flat pin for belay and bivy stations and some rare times when nothing else will do.

The other main use is in the alpine environment when the routes are semi-fixed with gear to aid guides etc.

So I would stick with the knife-blades. Learning how to put in a copperhead is a good skill too.

cheers
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Postby JD » Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:08 pm

Last edited by JD on Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:40 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Postby JScoles » Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:04 pm

Oh yeah one thing I forgot what this good link

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/pdfs/Pitoncraft.pdf
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Postby Dave Daly » Thu Mar 16, 2006 11:47 pm

JD wrote:Dave, I've probably nailed fewer pins than you.


I lost you there Jim....sarcasm or fact? :?
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Postby JD » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:07 am

Last edited by JD on Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby HandjamMasterC » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:28 am

Daves nailed about a dozen with me if I remember correctly, and cleaned 2 dozen of mine ( including some stacks ).


Oh yeah one thing I forgot what this good link

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/p ... ncraft.pdf


This is quite good - thanks for posting it !!!
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Postby JD » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:50 am

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Old school aid

Postby Ropeboy » Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:54 am

Dave, if you become familiar with the craft of nailing it will complement your clean aid skills and help prepare you for some long routes. Ya gotta learn by doing the nailing on many shorter routes because pin placement and removal can have as many subtleties as placing a nut or tricam or other device. If you seldom use pins you will also not learn some of the things-not-to-do with them. So go ahead and explore this new/old territory.
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Postby Fury » Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:26 am

HandjamMasterC wrote:Daves nailed about a dozen with me if I remember correctly, and cleaned 2 dozen of mine ( including some stacks ).


Oh yeah one thing I forgot what this good link

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/p ... ncraft.pdf


This is quite good - thanks for posting it !!!


You should check out the other articles on their website. Lots of good stuff.

JD - I don't think that it's the "Canadian" pdf's that are the problem! :wink:
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