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complete gear list?

Postby nickrp83 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 2:41 am

Anyone know where i can get a complete gear list of everything that would be needed to get started with basic mountaineering? I have a full set of summer backpacking gear just want to know what else i need.
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby nickrp83 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:29 am

what length rope? I have a 60m climbing rope, but its not a dry rope.
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby Mountainjeff » Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:42 am

Take a class and they will help you get what you need. If you insist on getting your gear first, I would recommend reading Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. It has pretty complete descriptions of what would be needed for differing types of routes.

Another option is making friends with the owner of a full rack. It is a lot cheaper... :P
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby JJBrunner » Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:39 am

What are you planning on doing?
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby Tonka » Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:10 am

If you are a true gear nazi you will need: down bag, synthetic bag, winter and summer of each, light pack, day pack, technical pack, expidition pack, snow shoes, skis, poles, trekking poles, trail runners, light hikers, gortex light hikers, mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, tent, 4 season tent, bivy sack, tarp, first aid kit, compass, GPS, altimeter watch, MSR cooking set-up, rain gear, soft shell, hard shell, 3 types of hats and a balaclava, 14 pair of gloves, 8 pair of pants that zipper off at different levels, level one, two, three, four and five of capilene. Puffy down, heavy down, gogles, glacier glasses and wait...I'm not getting into the technical stuff yet :)
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby drpw » Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:05 am

Tonka wrote:If you are a true gear nazi you will need: down bag, synthetic bag, winter and summer of each, light pack, day pack, technical pack, expidition pack, snow shoes, skis, poles, trekking poles, trail runners, light hikers, gortex light hikers, mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, tent, 4 season tent, bivy sack, tarp, first aid kit, compass, GPS, altimeter watch, MSR cooking set-up, rain gear, soft shell, hard shell, 3 types of hats and a balaclava, 14 pair of gloves, 8 pair of pants that zipper off at different levels, level one, two, three, four and five of capilene. Puffy down, heavy down, gogles, glacier glasses and wait...I'm not getting into the technical stuff yet :)


as i read this i just kept thinking "check ... check ... check ... check". i literally have all that.

as for beginning mountaineering, i'd get some approach shoes, single mountaineering boots, crampons, and ice ax. this will get you to the top of a lot of mountains and from there you can start accumulating more and more gear based on what you need to accomplish your next goals.
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby catalyst81 » Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:14 pm

If you know the kind of trip you want to do, you could try finding a guide service that does that sort of trip online. Often they'll post gear lists with what you need to bring. That might be a good place to get started.
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby DukeJH » Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:48 pm

I've found Alpine Ascents to have good gear information related to specific climbs on their website. Understand that they are a guide service and their recommendations are just that, recommendations, unless you climb with them and then the gear is mandatory.

Mountaineering gear is expensive and I suggest you accumulate it as you need it, as you go higher and colder and more technical.
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby AdamsKerr » Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:17 pm

mattski wrote:60m 8.9mm single rope


http://www.rei.com/product/737306 for standard glacier travel

two 60+m half ropes for technical climbing. (i like 7.5-8mm)
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby ExcitableBoy » Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:17 pm

I have many spreadsheets with gear lists for every type of trip I do. I assume when you say 'basic mountaineering' you mean gear to climb the normal routes of mountains like Shasta, Hood, Rainier, and Baker? Here is a list I use for three season basic mountaineering as I understand you mean. Note the brand and models are not important, they just happen to be what I have.

Clothing
Head
sun hat White mesh
warm hat fleece
sun glasses Cebe – high altitude glacier glasses with side shields
Helmet Petzl Elios
headlamp Princton Tec Aurora – LED
extra batteries lithium
Feet
boots Scarpa Manta (Traditional full leather upper – half shank)
liner socks (2 pair) Smartwool – thin
heavy socks (1 pair) Smartwool or cheap synthetic – thick
gaitors REI
Hands
fleece gloves Manzella
soft shell REI one
Bottom
pants REI Acme softshell
long underwear Patagonia lightweight if summer, midweight if spring or fall
Top
shirt short sleeve poly in light color - REI
wind shirt Marmot Driclime
wind shell Montbel Versalight
insulated parka Patagonia Micropuff
Climbing
crampons Petzl Vasak
ice axe Grivel Air Tech Racing
harness Petzl Adjama
locking carabiner Black Diamond
Pickets (1 per person)MSR Coyote
Pulleys (1 per person) Petzl
prusiks 6mm perlon
slings 2 single, 2 double spectra
carabiners 6 wire gate, 3 lockers
rope 8.5mm x 50 m (could go lighter with 8 mm x 30 m)
Campling Equipment
tent Black Diamond Betamid
stakes, guy lines soft stakes & aluminum stakes
sleeping bag Western Mountaineering 15 degree
pad Evazotte
backpack Black Diamond Shadow 45 L
trekking poles Cheap
stove MSR Pocket Rocket
fuel MSR Isopro 2 x 8 oz cannisters
pot MSR 1 liter
pot lifter MSR
knife Buck - small pocket knife with 1/2 serrated blade and lanyard hole
lighter small Bic (2)
map USGS
compass Silveretta
Water purification Chlorine Dioxide
water bottles (2) 1 liter Nalgene + 1 liter Platypus
bowl Ziplock
spoon Lexan
Misc
sunblock Aloe Gator SPF 40 gel
lip balm Bannana Boat SPF 30
toilet paper
lotion
first aid kit
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby Talisman47 » Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:58 pm

ExcitibleBoy nailed it . . .
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby nartreb » Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:29 pm

I don't know how to say this without being harsh, so I'll just say it: this is the wrong attitude. ExcitableBoy's list is just about perfect for the targets he named (rarely will two climbers carry *exactly* the same stuff, but this is close), but there's stuff on the list that is a recipe for disaster if you think buying it will get you safely up and down a mountain. Ice axe, pulleys, prussiks - if you don't know how to use them, you're better off staying away from routes that might call on you to do so. If you know how to use them, you know why and when you need them: a gear list is unnecessary.
Know your capabilities and choose your destinations accordingly.

PS ExcitableBoy, do you never have use for a belay/rappel device on those routes, or would you just use a Muenter if needed?
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby ExcitableBoy » Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:07 pm

nartreb wrote:I don't know how to say this without being harsh, so I'll just say it: this is the wrong attitude. ExcitableBoy's list is just about perfect for the targets he named (rarely will two climbers carry *exactly* the same stuff, but this is close), but there's stuff on the list that is a recipe for disaster if you think buying it will get you safely up and down a mountain. Ice axe, pulleys, prussiks - if you don't know how to use them, you're better off staying away from routes that might call on you to do so. If you know how to use them, you know why and when you need them: a gear list is unnecessary.
Know your capabilities and choose your destinations accordingly.



You are correct, one must first take a course or learn from otherwise qualified experts how to use an ice axe and crampons for the very simpliest ascents. When venturing on glaciers that adds an entirely new set of skills one must learn - setting snow and ice anchors, ascending a rope with prusiks, building z haul systems or z x c systems.

nartreb wrote:PS ExcitableBoy, do you never have use for a belay/rappel device on those routes, or would you just use a Muenter if needed?


For the 'trade' routes I rely on a Muenter hitch if needed. If I anticipate belaying or rappelling any pitches I bring a belay device. On Mt Baker's Park Glacier Headwall we ended up pitching out 3, 50 meter pitches and descended via 5 rappels. I think I used a Muenter for all of that. http://www.summitpost.org/route/536658/ ... dwall.html. If any belay/rappelling is anticipated, an ATC is worth the extra weight.
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Re: complete gear list?

Postby Autoxfil » Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:42 pm

nickrp83 wrote:Anyone know where i can get a complete gear list of everything that would be needed to get started with basic mountaineering? I have a full set of summer backpacking gear just want to know what else i need.


As you've noticed, there's a big difference of opinion. There are many ways to play this game, and you will develop a personal approach that may or may not line up with the people posting in this thread. 4 steps to start this sport while having fun, not spending tons of money (walking into REI and asking to get outfitted for all eventualities would run $5-10k), and also not putting yourself in danger:

1) You need certain things to be safe. For steep snow, ice axe and crampons will let you move safely if you learn how to use them correctly. For cold weather you'll need warm clothing and the knowledge to avoid weather or find shelter. Don't skimp on these. Beyond that...

2) You can make nearly anything work. You don't need an Arcteryx Alpha Beta Gamma and a Patagonia NanoMicro DAS to hike Shasta safely. A thick wool sweater and a cheap plastic rainjacket will work fine if that's what you have. Buying the "best" gear now usually means selling a bunch of it or having it sit in the closet down the road when you realize the "best" or the "right" gear on someone's list doesn't work for your style at all.

3) Buy used when you can, it usually means that if you made a mistake you can re-sell it for about what you paid. Also, if things have solid resale value it usually means they are quality-made and have mass appeal.

4) Buy what you need for the next trip, that's it. Start with strap-style crampons and a basic ice-axe ($200 total), and maybe a warm jacket if you don't have one (a ski jacket is fine to start). That plus backpacking gear will get you up the majority of beginner-rated California mountaineering trips. Once you've done a few trips you'll know what you want to change, and can incrementally work towards a refined gear system that works for you.
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