I´m initiating this topic in order for people to help each other out since it is in fact an El Niño year, and maybe this topic will help others in planning.

Rain is in fact taking a little too long to disappear. I was in Ishinca valley last week climbing Urus and Ishinca. Climbable but conditions weren´t perfect. Tocllaraju´s west face was super packed with snow, and other west facing faces are similar and should be climbable more towards the period of july. Two american skiers attempted it but there´s too much snow and it was very wet. I got a friend who will return to Huaraz tomorrow and should have attempted in the past days as well, will get an update from him.

On the other hand, Ranrapalca´s north and northeast face is close to perfection, maybe needing just a week more of good weather to stabilize. Same with other north facing faces. Bellow is a picture I took a few days ago from the col:



In a few days I´ll be leaving for Chopicalqui and upon return will post about conditions. On the same day I´ll have word on Arteson´s SE face. Any other news I have, I´ll also post here.

thanks brotha! this will be very helpful, i was going to Huascaran this mid to late July but now im not sure.

Thanks for the info! We're in the Vicanota and Vilcabamba ranges this year, but very interested to see any el Nino effects on all of the Peruvian ranges

Some more news: Normal route on Toclla has been climbed. Arteson´s SE Face has been skied but glacier down is very broken, lots of snow. Attempted Chopi these past days under the worse snow conditions I´ve ever seen.

Interesting is that a group of four french climbers opened a new route graded ED on Siula Grande last week, under a "good" weather window.

We´re pretty much in june now (yesterday was the first afternoon with completely clear skies in the Cordillera in the 20 days I´ve been here) and most of the routes aren´t in the shape they were supposed to be. Consensus among climbers and locals is that yes, routes will be in shape, but for a very short time, meaning mid june to late july.