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Crack too wide for gear

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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Dow Williams » Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:57 pm

you have never seen a big bro?
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Dow Williams » Sun Mar 18, 2012 8:02 pm

not if used properly, on both counts...go with the 2x4's I guess or bolt the wall up
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Dow Williams » Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:10 pm

or consider learning how to properly set a big bro...and with one hand....such experience and knowledge will come in handy with big off width routes
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby PellucidWombat » Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:00 am

Big Bros are spring loaded. If you can eye a placement and hang out long enough to place one, you can set it with one hand. Just set the extending side of the big bro on one side of the crack, press the trigger, and hold onto the Big Bro and guide the tube to its bearing on the other side of the crack. Spring tension should hold it somewhat in place if you still need to readjust the piece. Once in place, it will stay there as you scroll the wring lock tight - that or you can scroll it tight while still holding on to it. Any testing of the piece's security can then be done with your free arm.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby LuminousAphid » Mon Mar 19, 2012 2:14 pm

Aren't you glad you don't need to use this? These probably aren't even big enough

Image

Although, it may be a better option considering the price of the aforementioned Big Bros- $69 - $150

That is a hefty pricetag for one piece, although it is nice that Trango is sending the (dead) designer's royalties to his daughter's college fund.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby CClaude » Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:00 pm

Unfortunately Valley Giants cams only go up to 305cm (12") which would be a good but even more expensive (at $250 a piece for the largest). I'd go with Big Bro's then
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby fatdad » Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:52 pm

I wouldn't trust any piece of wood hammered in with an ice axe. I think I'd be tempted to use a home made tube chock before resorting to wood, or just get solid on your offwidth.
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby JD » Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:32 pm

CClaude wrote:Unfortunately Valley Giants cams only go up to 305cm (12") which would be a good but even more expensive (at $250 a piece for the largest). I'd go with Big Bro's then

Tom Kasper made a #16 Valley Giant specially for one customer. It's pictured on his website along with a plywood version that he made and used for aid on El Cap. I've cleaned the #12 following an easy free pitch. Clipped to my harness the thing was ridiculously huge, heavy and awkward, even collapsed. I just can't imagine carrying a 16" cam on lead, unless I was aiding and it was the only way.

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http://www.valleygiant.com/VGhistory.html
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby Nikolas_A » Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:18 pm

Have you seen this? No personal experiense with it though...
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby MoapaPk » Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:40 am

40cm? Is it consistent in width? I'm not a climber, but I've seen other non-climbers chimney up 16" cracks with parallel walls, no gear. Tough if you hit a constriction, or have a wide chest.

The only pic I could find right away (tougher when it is dead vertical):
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Re: Crack too wide for gear

Postby CClaude » Fri Mar 30, 2012 3:20 pm

Nikolas_A wrote:Have you seen this? No personal experiense with it though...


They may only make sense as a piece to leave every so often. The three pieces cover the same range as Black Diamond Camalots (sizes 5 and 6). But with cams, you can walk them up the crack as you climb (as sort of moving pro)
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