gwave47 wrote:I'd be interested to know if he spent any time high on the mountain acclimatizing then rushes down to basecamp and began his speed ascent. If he spent anytime acclimatizing before he started the clock then I would argue that it doesn't count.
gwave47 wrote:A speed record should be getting off the plane, utilizing transportation to the trailhead, and they starting the clock from there.
gwave47 wrote:That's my point though. Acclimatizing is part of the climb. The speed record should be how fast you climb including acclimatizing. Otherwise, you have a non standardized variable that may give him the advantage.
gwave47 wrote:I knew that question would come up, but seeing how people climb to 14k without acclimatizing, that would not make nearly the difference, as someone hanging out at 18k for a week.
gwave47 wrote:The problem is this, speed records like this get highly publicized without an explanation of change of altitude and it's dangers. Then it becomes a gross misrepresentation of the sport. I intend on climbing Denali one day, and when a coworker asked me last week how long it would take I explained 2 - 3 weeks possibly longer, depending on pace, choice of partners, and most importantly weather. Well he caught the PBS special on National Parks last night and saw where Denali has been climbed in less than 24 hours. He comes back to work today and asks why it would take 2 - 3 weeks if someone has climbed it in less than 24 hours. I tried to explain that it is not humanly possible to my knowledge to climb to 20k in 24 hours. I tried to explain to him what altitude sickness is and the effect elevation has on the brain and body. I told him that in my honest opinion the guy had to have acclimatized for a week or more. He said that the PBS special did not mention anything like that, and that according to it, Denali has been climbed in less than 24 hours without any prior preparation such as acclimatizing. How many other people caught the PBS special and now have a false impression of mountaineering or the power and danger of Denali? Not saying its the climbers fault. Just think these "official" records should be kept differently.
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