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Denali tips

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Re: Denali tips

Postby ScottyP » Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:40 am

Sanders, please re-read Alasdairs comment. I feel pretty comfortable in the alpine enviroment but felt a guide service on Denali made sense to me.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby radson » Tue Apr 05, 2011 4:24 am

sanders wrote:Folks, is there anybody who is searching for a team to traverse the crevasses on McKinley? Is there any special forum for that?


sanders, might be time to give the good folks at summitpost an idea of your prior experience and aims for McKinley for some honest feedback.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:06 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:sanders,

Are looking to join a team to climb Denali (Mt McKinley)? What do you mean by traverse teh crevasses?


Actually, yes. At least, team up for the difficult pitches with crevasses...
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:17 am

radson wrote:
sanders wrote:Folks, is there anybody who is searching for a team to traverse the crevasses on McKinley? Is there any special forum for that?


sanders, might be time to give the good folks at summitpost an idea of your prior experience and aims for McKinley for some honest feedback.


Sure, prior experience - several glacier peaks at above 19,000 feet and many other minor peaks. Step-by-step description of one of my climbs here - http://bit.ly/hBmiLu - the most northern 23,000 feet summit (you need to wait 40 seconds before you can start downloading)

I feel I have a compelling story for McKinley. Why this mountain? - Need some more experience with low temperatures and unstable weather. It's my preparation for the Himalayan and Karakoram peaks above 26,000 feet... Plus, this time I can take 3 weeks off - will probably never happen again in the next couple of years...
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Re: Denali tips

Postby radson » Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:41 pm

I cant download the file. Is that a Khan Tengri trip report?
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:56 pm

radson wrote:I cant download the file. Is that a Khan Tengri trip report?


That's right. You need to push the banner-type button "Download" when it appears after 40 seconds...
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:36 am

So, folks, do you have any advice on finding the team for the climb? Shall I try to do it at the base camp or better on some specialized forums? How easy would it be to team up on spot? I can't find any good forum that would gather people for climbing Denali...
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Re: Denali tips

Postby Brad Marshall » Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:53 pm

I would image it would be quite difficult to hook up with another team this late in the planning unless you know someone.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:16 pm

sanders wrote:So, folks, do you have any advice on finding the team for the climb? Shall I try to do it at the base camp or better on some specialized forums? How easy would it be to team up on spot? I can't find any good forum that would gather people for climbing Denali...

You will most likely not be able to fly onto the KIA without a permit. To get a permit you need to apply for it 60 days before your trip begins. Since you don't have a team lined up you will need a special soloist permit. Once at KIA, there will be lots of people. Maybe you could find a team to tie in with, but it seems a long shot.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Sun Apr 10, 2011 4:15 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:
sanders wrote:So, folks, do you have any advice on finding the team for the climb? Shall I try to do it at the base camp or better on some specialized forums? How easy would it be to team up on spot? I can't find any good forum that would gather people for climbing Denali...

You will most likely not be able to fly onto the KIA without a permit. To get a permit you need to apply for it 60 days before your trip begins. Since you don't have a team lined up you will need a special soloist permit. Once at KIA, there will be lots of people. Maybe you could find a team to tie in with, but it seems a long shot.


I see. I've got a solo permit.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby doc1911 » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:38 am

Any suggestions on 2 and 3 man tents. we had some ordered form Nemo but they are way backed up and the trip is rapidly approaching. I have used the EV 25 and EV 24 and like the tent but it is bit heavy. Looking for something lighter weight.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby ScottyP » Sat Apr 23, 2011 2:36 am

I brought three batteries, slept with them and really protected them. In the end, I only used 1.5 ba time.tteries for over 1000 pics and 10 minutes of video. Keep them warm BEFORE using them and they will last a long
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:43 pm

Folks, I need a -30F sleeping bag and a 3-person expedition tent for Denali. Would appreciate if you could recommend me any climbing equipment rental services in Anchorage. I called REI and Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking - they don't rent these items.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby wfinley » Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:35 am

sanders wrote:Folks, I need a -30F sleeping bag and a 3-person expedition tent for Denali. Would appreciate if you could recommend me any climbing equipment rental services in Anchorage. I called REI and Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking - they don't rent these items.

You can double check with AMS but I seriously doubt anyone is going to rent you a tent and bag for Denali.

Your best bet is to buy used. Here's a bag for sale.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby doc1911 » Wed May 25, 2011 3:04 am

sanders wrote:Folks, I need a -30F sleeping bag and a 3-person expedition tent for Denali. Would appreciate if you could recommend me any climbing equipment rental services in Anchorage. I called REI and Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking - they don't rent these items.



I just got back a week ago. I had a -20F bag, VBL and liner and never slept in more than layer 1 until 17K Camp. This time of year you really don't need a -30F bag. Save some space and weight and go with a 0F or -10F bag and use a VBL and maybe a thermal liner. If you get cold (which I doubt) just throw on extra clothes that you already have.

AMS might have a tent. Get a good one. It is worth it.
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