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Denali tips

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Canada and Alaska. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Canada and Alaska Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: Denali tips

Postby doc1911 » Sat Mar 12, 2011 10:52 pm

Thanks for the thoughts on the skis. We are going back and forth on skis vs. snow shoes.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby AndyJB444 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:30 am

Skis/skins all the way! Especially if you're shooting for a climb later in the season after the blue ice disappears - some fun lines all around you at 11k and above.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby drpw » Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:56 am

Later in the season is better for ski descent? The blue ice is less later in the season?
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Re: Denali tips

Postby kevo » Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:17 am

I'll be up there this year. Getting to Talkeetna May 21st.

Anyone have any updates on how the weather has been this winter? I've heard conflicting info. Is it a low snow year thus far?
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:58 pm

Hi folks,

Does anybody know whether there could be any problems obtaining the climbing permit for Denali at the end of May or the beginning/mid June? I only know about the 60-day pre-climbing registration deadline and nothing about the demand for the permits. Is that 60-day period cut in stone? What is the situation with permits for May and June? Sorry if that's a little bit off-topic.

Thanks,
Nik
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Re: Denali tips

Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:26 pm

sanders wrote:Hi folks,

Does anybody know whether there could be any problems obtaining the climbing permit for Denali at the end of May or the beginning/mid June? I only know about the 60-day pre-climbing registration deadline and nothing about the demand for the permits. Is that 60-day period cut in stone? What is the situation with permits for May and June? Sorry if that's a little bit off-topic.

Thanks,
Nik


The last time I was there, the Park Service was discussing capping the number of permits on the WB, but I don't know if that has actually happened. The 60 day period is set in stone UNLESS you have previously attempted Denali and have previously registered, in which case you can get the permit 8 days in advance. Most permits on the WB are from May-July.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby radson » Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:38 pm

I think also if you join another group's permit, you may 30 days as per section 5, Page 10 of the NPS Booklet.

http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/booklet.htm
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Re: Denali tips

Postby Dan Shorb » Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:21 am

Bring a big, big tent, a posh/mid for cooking, and a super small one if you want a night of solitude/ versatility to do other routes. Think about some car camping types stuff if you plan on being up there a while: chair, iPod full of movies/music, games, etc., solar panel to power it.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Sat Apr 02, 2011 2:24 am

Thanks, folks. I liked the NPS Booklet! I have a couple more questions:
- What is the best way to get from Anchorage to Talkeetna - by a shuttle bus or by a railroad?
- How tricky is flying from Talkeetna to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier in terms of the flights availability and delays due to bad weather conditions in June?
- The guidebook mentions 14 days required to complete a climb - do I need to add more days for unstable weather and potential second attempt? How long do the expeditions usually take from Anchorage to Denali and back to Anchorage? 21 days?

Thanks again.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby radson » Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:00 am

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Re: Denali tips

Postby ScottyP » Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:27 am

Radson, you beat me to the link post! Great resource..
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Re: Denali tips

Postby Alasdair » Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:14 am

Hey Sanders, given the questions you are asking, have you thought about using a guide service?
www.alasdairturner.com
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:48 pm

Thanks, folks. I appreciate your tips.
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Re: Denali tips

Postby sanders » Tue Apr 05, 2011 12:38 am

Folks, is there anybody who is searching for a team to traverse the crevasses on McKinley? Is there any special forum for that?
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Re: Denali tips

Postby ExcitableBoy » Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:15 am

sanders,

Are looking to join a team to climb Denali (Mt McKinley)? What do you mean by traverse teh crevasses?
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