Denali tips

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Canada and Alaska. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Canada and Alaska Climbing Partners forum.
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Cheeseburglar

 
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by Cheeseburglar » Fri Apr 23, 2010 5:43 am

Lot's of good advice so far. Pulling a sled a little prior to going would have helped me a bit.
I'll add this:
Load the dense stuff in the bottom of the sled.
Leave most of the cheese at the glacier airport. Sleeping with cheese so you can eat it sucks.
One liter of rumplemints per person should be enough.
Take at least one pound of bacon per person. If you really like bacon, take more.
That last bit of advice we got from Lou Dawson, you might run into those guys up there. They have all the details wrapped up!
http://www.wildsnow.com/category/denali ... ski-climb/
Don't worry if you aren't as prepared as them, they are crazy.

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HeyItsBen

 
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by HeyItsBen » Fri Apr 23, 2010 7:27 am

Any other SP'ers gonna be out there? I'll be there May 26 prep'd for 3.5 weeks...

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splattski

 
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by splattski » Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:08 pm

Lots of good suggestions here.
One piece of equipment we found extremely useful that I have not seen anywhere: a thin pair of stretchy gloves with rubberized palms and fingertips.
You need gloves for handling pots, pans, stoves, dipping water from the pan, etc. But polypro-type liners get wet and do not hold up. Those $7 gloves were awesome- enough insulation that your hands don't freeze, but enough grip and tactile for unthreading fuel bottles, scooping water out of the pot, fiddling with the stove, etc.
Every time it was my turn to cook, it was "Where are those gloves?"

And one last tip: Go out and use ALL that stuff before you drag it up to Alaska:
http://www.splattski.com/2009/snocamp/index.html

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Alasdair

 
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by Alasdair » Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:39 pm

I agree with many of the items already mentioned. Here are the things I think are really important.

Cell phones dont work up there dont bring it.

You dont need to treat the water, just use clean snow.

Dont bring a helmet, but dont follow a large group up the fixed lines.

Bring a thing of roll on anitpersperant wipe it all over your feet. It will stop your feet from sweating which will keep them much warmer.

Bacon. Lots of it.

Acclimatization does not work if you are sitting in your tent. Get your heart rate up on acclimatization days. Dig a hole, Hike over to Edge of the world, head up to the base of the fixed lines, walk up motorcycle hill.

Tips on camera use.
http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/2009 ... s-ago.html

Spend some time seeing Alaska.
http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/2009 ... ircle.html

Here are some photos...

From a trip.
http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/2009 ... hotos.html

From the air.
http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/2009 ... white.html

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Apr 23, 2010 5:01 pm

benjamingray wrote:Any other SP'ers gonna be out there? I'll be there May 26 prep'd for 3.5 weeks...


My wife and I will be there May 9-31.

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cab

 
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by cab » Fri Apr 23, 2010 7:20 pm

Brad Marshall wrote:
benjamingray wrote:Any other SP'ers gonna be out there? I'll be there May 26 prep'd for 3.5 weeks...


My wife and I will be there May 9-31.


I'll be up there starting May 18th.

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Muddeer

 
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by Muddeer » Fri Apr 23, 2010 8:39 pm

Brad Marshall wrote:My wife and I will be there May 9-31.


Good luck to you and Sue!

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Apr 23, 2010 9:51 pm

FortMental wrote:
Brad Marshall wrote:
benjamingray wrote:Any other SP'ers gonna be out there? I'll be there May 26 prep'd for 3.5 weeks...


My wife and I will be there May 9-31.



Again? Once might be for love.... but TWICE is wife-abuse!


What is it when she's the one who wants to go?

Thanks Hakno.

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Zzyzx

 
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by Zzyzx » Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:57 am

Unless you are planning to set a speed record don't worry about the weight and bring lots of good food, some tunes and a couple books. You'll be going slowly anyway, and most of the time you'll spend either in the tent or hanging out at the camp and shooting the breeze, so you want to enjoy life, and it may be hard to do if all you have is instant oatmeal.
Also don't forget to enjoy the experience. It's an amazing place REGARDLESS whether you summit or not. Unfortunately many people get impatient and either do something stupid or give up and leave, so make sure you have plenty of time. Most of it will be waiting for good weather. The year I went there there was a Filipino team and they spent 37 (!) days on the mountain waiting for the right time to summit.

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Joljon

 
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by Joljon » Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:12 am

Hi guys, hope it's ok to come wiht a question of my own. I'm going to Denali in June. I have been looking at guide services equipment lists and they say that one should have overboots. Is this really necessary? I have super gaitors.

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Zzyzx

 
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by Zzyzx » Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:31 am

Joljon wrote:Hi guys, hope it's ok to come wiht a question of my own. I'm going to Denali in June. I have been looking at guide services equipment lists and they say that one should have overboots. Is this really necessary? I have super gaitors.


I don't know if they are necessary, but certainly a good thing to have. It can get pretty cold up there and I'd spent an extra $100 to keep my toes warm. Also many people walk in them in the camp instead of putting the boots on. Best thing would be to ask the guide service you're going with about the super gaitors.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Sat Apr 24, 2010 2:19 pm

Joljon wrote:Hi guys, hope it's ok to come wiht a question of my own. I'm going to Denali in June. I have been looking at guide services equipment lists and they say that one should have overboots. Is this really necessary? I have super gaitors.


If you are going with a guide service and they say you need to have overboots then you need to have overboots. I went late May-early June and I used insulated supergaitors and Intuition liners in my Scarpa Invernos and was fine. I ran into a friend who was guiding up there and said it was a particularly cold year.

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ScottyP

 
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by ScottyP » Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:34 pm

May 16 for me. As for sled training I drag a tire behind my loaded pack 1x per week for five miles. Not a lot of fun but I am hoping it helps. I have been planning on a pack weight (at least on day one) of 65#s so have been training as such, Scott

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Haliku

 
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by Haliku » Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:40 pm

Again? What route? Good luck.

Brad Marshall wrote:My wife and I will be there May 9-31.

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