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Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

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Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Diego Sahagún » Sun Apr 14, 2002 6:25 pm

"On 8 June 1924, Mallory with the inexperienced Irvine as a partner, set out form Camp VI to climb the las 600 m to the summit. They were seen by Odell through a break in the cloud, at the first step of the NE Ridge (others say between the first and second of the two steep rocky steps that interrupt the ridge). What happened after that remains a mystery: they did not return and no trace was found of them. In 1933 an ice axe belonging to one of them (probably Irvine because of the marks made on it) was found at about 8.400 m (8.450 m say others) and is presumed that an accident ocurred at this spot and the two climbers fell to their deaths".

"Inexplicably, Mallory chose Irvine instead of the experienced Odell as his partner for the summit assault". Irvine's "mountaneering qualifications were negligible". "Mallory's actual total of new clibs in Britain and the Alps was small, an none are of great importance". "In 1999 an American expedition (led by Eric Simonson) finds the body of George Leigh Mallory not far from the N (NE) ridge".

The true is that 2nd step of rock 30 meters-high, situated at 8.600 m, is very difficult even with crampons and modern methods. Actually there is a ladder installed in 1975. I´ve not read any of the books published about this subject in the last years yet. But this uncertainty makes me doubt. What do you think summitposters?
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Diego Sahagún » Sun Apr 14, 2002 9:38 pm

Thera are many books about this fact, many of them say things very quickly. But I'm only putting up a question about a doubt that I have. Any thoughts?
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Diego Sahagún » Sun Apr 14, 2002 11:50 pm

If you'd have them you'll get rich by selling the exclusive? ;-)
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Apr 15, 2002 9:45 am

You are right Joescheppaeq when you say "an unreasonable man persists in attempting to adapt his environment to suit himself". Probably Irvine didn't have experience on high mountains but I think, just because they did not return, raises an issue of discussion. Though we'll probably don't know the true until Irvine be found, his camera... Precisaly it have just published a book about Mummery here in Spain. I'll see if I buy it. What I've read is the book of Annapurna expedition writed by Herzog, nor the one by Lachenal. It is presumed as one of the best mountain-literature books in history. In fact, in 1950 they hadn't the gear and methods today exist. Though in our times some people climb these big mountains without the aid of canned oxygen, at least while they are climbing. I think Mallory and Irvine hardly tread on Everest summit but I'll be very happy if sometimes it reveals the reverse. The name of the climbers is the least of it when weather turn bad or an avalanche happen in these huge peaks, I conclude.
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby keema » Mon Apr 15, 2002 11:05 am

A good book is<A HREF="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0684871513/qid=1018875159/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-3135638-1903811"> The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Everest</A> by Conrad Anker and Dave Roberts. Anker found Mallory's body and offers his opinion on whether Mallory made the summit based on his (Anker's) own attempt. The camera Mallory carried was not found, so we still do not know for sure. There also was a public television documentary done about the search expedition.
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby mconnell » Mon Apr 15, 2002 2:00 pm

As Joescheppaeq said, it doesn't matter since they didn't come back. The climb was not succesful whether they reached the top or not.

There is more to choosing a partner than experience. If Mallory didn't trust Odell as a climbing partner, then he made the right choice.

I don't think either of them had the skill to have climbed the second step.
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Apr 15, 2002 2:59 pm

Yes, a famous climber (I don't remind who was now) said: you don't climb a mountain till you descend it (more or less). And I think he was right. Also my thought is that is better a good partner than an experienced one but not useful. With this, I don't want to say Odell was a bad partner. Hasta luego.
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby JScoles » Mon Apr 15, 2002 3:47 pm

I doupt they made it much past where the ice axe was found and definetly not over the second step. They were both very overburdend with the O2 kits (about 20kg) and they were fairly ineffective giveing them only a marginal boost.

Most importatly both were mostlikly totally dehydrated as they had no stove at high camp to melt snow the day before. The slept little, ate very little and drank nothing the day and night before hardly a good way to start any summit bid let alone Everest.

No they didn't make it they did do a ver bold attempt though.
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby herbie » Mon Apr 15, 2002 4:03 pm

Reinhold Messner thinks they made it and died during their descent. He wrote that in one of his books after he climbed the Everest without oxygen. I can't remember the reasons he had for his assumption.
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby William Marler » Mon Apr 15, 2002 5:58 pm

No they were not over burdoned with oyxgen equipment. The last photo taken of then ascending by Odell shows the equipment laying there on the ground. When I met him (Odell) he remarked on this fact. They (Mallory and Irving) found the stuff too heavy and had left it behind. As to whether they made it. Only if Irvines camera is found intact will he ever know. Some things are best left a mystery. Cheers William
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Honkeydong » Mon Apr 15, 2002 9:37 pm

I think the next achievement on the big E should be an ascent in pioneer style. Hobnail boots and tweed jackets; oilskin cloth tents and small vintage rucksacks; hemp rope and brandy flasks. No electronics, GU, Gore-Tex, or titanium anything. Now *that* would be a "pure" ascent.

Better get goin' Reinhold, you got work to do {;-)>
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Re: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit of Everest?

Postby Rhino Holding Messer » Tue Apr 16, 2002 12:02 pm

Reinhold Messner your a fake!!!
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