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Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

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Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Jerry L » Mon Jun 20, 2011 11:23 pm

Just wondering if anyone has up to date information on conditions. I'm thinking about heading there in the next week or two. Up for other suggestions if anyone had one. Just trying to stay busy here. Thanks.
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Boriss Andean » Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:42 am

Conditions are great in Ecuador now. A bit windy though. A couple SP parties have been able to summit Cotopaxi and Chimborazo in the last couple weeks.

See you around!

Boriss...
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Jerry L » Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:25 am

I appreciate that. I was hoping that you would comment.
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby JB99 » Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:16 am

We got turned back by weather on Cotopaxi last week, trip report here if you're interested: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=10091
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Jerry L » Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:21 pm

Enjoyed reading it. Thanks..............
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby JB99 » Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:21 pm

Thanks. Good luck, it was a pretty amazing place. If you have some weather days available I'll bet you get a good shot and summit. We were limited to one day because our recent car accident made climbing more than one day within a week or so too rough on our backs and necks. (Some dude rear-ended us on the highway on our way to an acclimation climb shortly before the trip...) We had an amazing trip still, it just wasn't a climbing trip like we'd planned. Original plans included Illiniza Norte, Chimborazo and no guide... As with any trip I've ever taken though it was the people who stood out. I don't think I've ever seen as many smiles anywhere in the world. Don't skip the Cuy either, it's pretty good...
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Jerry L » Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:56 pm

I also love Ecuador. This will be my 4th trip and lived there years ago while I served in the Peace Corps. I bought the ticket 7/08 until 7/27. :D
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Boriss Andean » Tue Jun 21, 2011 7:07 pm

JB99 wrote:We got turned back by weather on Cotopaxi last week,


Yes, weather was changing from one day to another last week. We had good and bad weather and it was hard to know when would be the best time to climb. It could be ok today and real bad tomorrow. SPer jwinters and his friends summited Cotopaxi under windy conditions as well as other parties last week, but many others not.

The weather changed after the full moon. Days really improved but you still will probably have some rain in the afternoon hours. Andes are impredictable here :).

Nice TR JB99. I've guided with Segundo before. He is a good guide and strong as a bull. I met with him a couple days ago. He really liked the gift and appreciates it so much!

Boriss...
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby LS » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:48 am

Snowstorm yesterday on Cotopaxi. I went out to pee at midnight, and decided to just go back to sleep. There were 3-4 small groups (all guided) and they all left shortly after midnight. It was tempting to just sneak behind them, so I could follow their guides who knows the proper route and the labyrinth of crevasses. But I did not like the idea of being a freebie. For me to go solo, I would need fairly good weather and a solid snow trail to follow in order to minimize the danger of falling into a crevasse unroped. However, In case I stumbled upon a dubious snow bridge (hopefully visible), I had anchors and rope to secure myself across (a time consuming 3 times across instead of 1 time). But with fresh snow, no trail and low visibility, there could be potential hazards under my feet at all time. No way I would dare to solo in such circumstances.

I went out to pee again 2am, but still a snowstorm and low visibility. So I stayed in bed rest of the night. Some climbers started to come back around 3am, they looked terrible (iced up). In the morning some of the summiters returned, they looked like icetaps. I'm impressed that the guides were able to find a safe route in the snowstorm and bring their clients to the summit and back in such bad weather.

I'm heading for Riobamba and Chimbo now. This time I'm really considering to hire a local guide in Riobamba, just as an guarantee to summit even if it's bad weather (like on Cotopaxi).
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby JB99 » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:01 am

Jerry L wrote:I also love Ecuador. This will be my 4th trip and lived there years ago while I served in the Peace Corps. I bought the ticket 7/08 until 7/27. :D


And I'm telling you how great it is... ha. You could tell me a few things I'm sure.

HIGH EXPEDITIONS wrote:Nice TR JB99. I've guided with Segundo before. He is a good guide and strong as a bull. I met with him a couple days ago. He really liked the gift and appreciates it so much!

Boriss...


Thanks Boriss, that means a lot coming from you about the trip report. In case you didn't watch it we give a "special thanks" to you at the end of our slideshow for all your beta before we came down. Segundo was awesome, we didn't originally plan on going guided but meeting him made it worth it for sure. You live in an amazing place, I can't wait to get back someday.
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby LS » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:10 pm

Beautiful weather on Chimborazo today (after some stormy days).
Normal route to Chimborazo is in good condition. Just a few icy spots to gain the ridge. From the ridge good snowconditons (hard snow-trail) all the way to Ventemilla summit. Continuing to main (whymper) summit is hard labour, because I stepped into quite many knee-deep and a few hip-deep holes in the snow.
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Re: Ecuador Climbing in July 2011

Postby Jerry L » Wed Jun 29, 2011 12:27 am

Thanks for the update. I guess I should start training now :D
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