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Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Aug 17, 2017 11:24 pm

mrchad9 wrote:The early season snow conditions on Washington stratovolcanoes are not very much different than they are on California stratovolcanoes.


I don't have much of a base to compare. I've only climbed Shasta, once, via Casaval Ridge the last weekend in May. Conditions seemed more like July in the Washington Cascades; nice firm neve, no post holing, good step kicking. Maybe it was just a fortunate coincidence, but the research I had done indicated late May was some years too late for Casaval Ridge.

I'm not one to believe in energy vortexes or such, but there was definitely an energy on Shasta that was unlike anything I've ever experienced. LIke a lot of positive ions in the air or something. And the Dr. Seuss trees were crazy.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby clmbr » Fri Aug 18, 2017 1:56 am

ExcitableBoy wrote:
mrchad9 wrote:The early season snow conditions on Washington stratovolcanoes are not very much different than they are on California stratovolcanoes.


I don't have much of a base to compare. I've only climbed Shasta, once, via Casaval Ridge the last weekend in May. Conditions seemed more like July in the Washington Cascades; nice firm neve, no post holing, good step kicking. Maybe it was just a fortunate coincidence, but the research I had done indicated late May was some years too late for Casaval Ridge.

I'm not one to believe in energy vortexes or such, but there was definitely an energy on Shasta that was unlike anything I've ever experienced. LIke a lot of positive ions in the air or something. And the Dr. Seuss trees were crazy.

I would not make any assumption after just one attempt. However, you would be surprised when people say Casaval Ridge route is done for the season, including local guides. Shame! :roll: So if I need any beta I only ask if snowshoes are necessary for the lower part, and still leave them in the car. :o

Yes, conditions are similar but one needs to consider the different in the distance from the North and weather patterns and, therefore, seasonal timing adjustments. However, the glaciers, especially on Mt Rainier, are just much bigger and more serious in the Washington Cascades, even on a tiny Mt Baker. If the DC route did not have a trail (snow path) I would assume many, many endeavors would be dying there if attempting it at all. :o

As of energy, believe in what you want to believe. However, I’ve mentioned this a few times in the past that it’s easier for me (no altitude issues) to get to the top of Mt Rainier than Mt Shasta, even with a full backpack to the summit. I assume one of the factors is excitement; I love glaciers. :)
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:14 am

Probably very similar Mountains 50,000 years ago, but sadly today they are two very uncomparable Mountains.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yury » Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:33 am

Simkin, can you use a normal lense on your action camera instead of a fish eye?
Perspective is so distorted in your clips that it's hard to understand what was going on.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:58 am

Yank-Tank wrote:Man, I have freesoloed everything that you have videos of and I live over the otherside of the world.

In an opium dream.



Here are two more videos of climbing in gloves

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxTvo_N2GSw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT91ZOHAkbU
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Aug 22, 2017 7:29 pm

The conditions on Shasta are definitely not homogenous throughout the season, or any given month, and that is especially true in early season.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:27 pm

Simkin wrote:
Yank-Tank wrote:Man, I have freesoloed everything that you have videos of and I live over the otherside of the world.

In an opium dream.



Here are two more videos of climbing in gloves

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxTvo_N2GSw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT91ZOHAkbU


Yip, I have climbed that too Simkin. My scariest free solo in the Sierra was shark fin arete in the Alabama Hill, just because of the breakable holds and the steep 5.7 down climb.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Enkidu » Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:52 pm

Simkin wrote:In an opium dream.





Good one.
Bring a compass. It's awkward when you have to eat your friends
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:50 am

You better follow the good example of Daria.

I know not how it was - what was it that swayed her. Perhaps she read the article by Solzhenitsyn "Live Not By Lies." And started to value truth. And got the moral courage to say this:
Daria wrote: I used a rope on the 4th class ramp leading to the summit
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:58 am

Yip, that's Daria. I have roped her up many a 4th class section. It is pretty much like ropless climbing, you look down some times and she is looking some place else taking photographs with no hands on the rope.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Thu Aug 24, 2017 6:51 pm

Poor thing did not learn to lie. Could have make up that free-soloed a 5.7 like some others.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:15 pm

Simkin wrote:Poor thing did not learn to lie. Could have make up that free-soloed a 5.7 like some others.


Who Daria? She is a pathological liar. You wouldn't know what is true unless you are actually with her. She herself has claimed to have climbed peaks that she has not climbed.

As for me, I don't need to lie. You will see my name in the summit registers.

But you, you are a crazily bad climber, you must really not like your family if you risk all that just to climb those silly lines that nobody cares about.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby mrchad9 » Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:19 pm

It's true people who climb either don't have families or don't like their families lol.

Same goes for people with money who still work into their sixties... they just don't want to be at home with their nasty wives.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby powderjunkie » Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:41 pm

Maybe I should stay out of this conversation but I just want to emphasize to you Simkin that trailing a pack on the routes you are doing is really dangerous in my opinion.

Feel free to gopro your solos and use gloves, but the trailing of your backpack just invites disaster. It can become stuck, can pull you off the rock and can drop rocks down on other climbers.

I am impressed with how much you get out and the climbs you are doing. Not so impressed with your technique and the way you are promoting your climbs here.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby mrchad9 » Fri Aug 25, 2017 6:55 pm

Why would you drag a pack?
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