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Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Jul 22, 2017 3:43 pm

Simkin wrote:
ExcitableBoy wrote:What's cool in allowing snow to fill your boots? Oh, yeah, your feet.

Yes, but can you give a concrete example of anti-gaiter bigotry.

Yes.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Wed Aug 09, 2017 2:56 am

Free soloing a 5.6 (North Arete of the Crystal Crag) in gloves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm5C3N807-0
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Wed Aug 09, 2017 11:45 am

Simkin wrote:Free soloing a 5.6 (North Arete of the Crystal Crag) in gloves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm5C3N807-0


What is the deal with that haul bag thing you use? That thing is going to kill you one day, rope is the soloists worst nightmare.

Stop and take a good long hard look at what you are doing, would be my advise.

1-Why would you risk a fall by dragging a rope over the rock like that if it won't save you from a fall?

2- Don't forget that one slip and you are dead, so with gloves on you are more likely to slip because you can not feel the rock properly.

As for the op- Gloves are more than likely to make climbing easier, but that does not make them safer. All the gung-ho '5.10' Crack climbers wear gloves. I don't because if I slip, I want to feel every last bit of rock in my finger tips and know exactly what is going on as I am slipping.

Do you use protection at home in bed? Maybe you should start on the rock.

Go and rope solo some stuff. Not on a popular route like that and start on bolts to get the speed work up, then move to trad.

What you are doing is crazy man, way too many variables, you don't need all the stuff that is in the bag if you are doing proper free solos.

As for gaiters? They are for metrosexual Euro box heads. Maybe people will start wearing them if they can start making some that the Velcro actually works and doesn't fall off. Oh, actually no they won't, because the box heads just buy pants with built in gaiters now days.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Fri Aug 11, 2017 8:25 pm

Yank-Tank wrote:rope is the soloists worst nightmare.

But your experience comes from trad climbing a class 4.

Yank-Tank wrote:Stop and take a good long hard look at what you are doing, would be my advise.

1-Why would you risk a fall by dragging a rope over the rock like that if it won't save you from a fall?

2- Don't forget that one slip and you are dead, so with gloves on you are more likely to slip because you can not feel the rock properly.

As for the op- Gloves are more than likely to make climbing easier, but that does not make them safer. All the gung-ho '5.10' Crack climbers wear gloves. I don't because if I slip, I want to feel every last bit of rock in my finger tips and know exactly what is going on as I am slipping.

Do you use protection at home in bed? Maybe you should start on the rock.

Go and rope solo some stuff. Not on a popular route like that and start on bolts to get the speed work up, then move to trad.

What you are doing is crazy man, way too many variables, you don't need all the stuff that is in the bag if you are doing proper free solos.

As for gaiters? They are for metrosexual Euro box heads. Maybe people will start wearing them if they can start making some that the Velcro actually works and doesn't fall off. Oh, actually no they won't, because the box heads just buy pants with built in gaiters now days.

In another thread you slandered my widely covered by the press research which do not present any threat to my life but, in contrary, makes a living. Suddenly you became caring. But what do you really care for? You are upset that my video sometimes get comments like that
[–]Alpinemama 2 points 11 months ago

I just watched some of your video! It looks like you did that knife edge traverse a lot more calmly than I did haha pretty scary, even on lead.

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comme ... free_solo/

And want to hush it.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:12 am

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comme ... free_solo/

VagtasticVoyagers 2 points 12 months ago

If you need gloves to protect your hands, then you are not even close to experienced enough to be attempting free solos. Your technique and the fact that your breathing sounds strained on some of the moves only reinforces this. And hauling a pack up while not being anchored in is incredibly dangerous. Get yourself a rope, climbing lessons, and some common sense.

deleted] 4 points 12 months ago

Sorry to be a dick as well, but you should never ever do this again. Your technique is non existent, you weren't using chalk, you were wearing random gloves ffs. You didn't forerun this route, you're hands and feet are randomly wandering all over. You're so damn lucky you weren't the next retard scraped off the rocks for trying to be like Honnald. Do not do this again, you will die.

–]All_cheez_no_mac 3 points 11 months ago

Ignore these kooks, it looked pretty fun. At around 2:05 you look down the climb, and there is a thin rope dangling at your feet, what is that for?

Also, be careful about what you pull on free soloing. Pulling through a harder move is safer than reaching for a block that may or may not pop.

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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:53 am

She gave a diagnosis

these haters are freaking out over nothing


You quoted a hater. You yourself are a hater. And when a hater pretends to be a caring one it is not merely evil. It is dort schlecht.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:39 am

I am not a hater, I just know that ropes are a tripping hazard and that you don't even need to haul on 5.10s.

Those dudes are right, it doesn't look like you have a whole heap of climbing experience.

If you tried doing what you do here in the Alps you would be a dead man walking.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Simkin » Sun Aug 13, 2017 8:07 pm

The dudes never did a free solo, just like yourself.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Sun Aug 13, 2017 9:17 pm

Man, I have freesoloed everything that you have videos of and I live over the otherside of the world.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby mrchad9 » Wed Aug 16, 2017 9:17 pm

ExcitableBoy wrote:
Simkin wrote:
ExcitableBoy wrote:What's cool in allowing snow to fill your boots? Oh, yeah, your feet.

Yes, but can you give a concrete example of anti-gaiter bigotry.

Yes.

I never wear gaiters... not against them I just don't see the point. Never have a real problem getting snow in my boots. Sometimes just a little gets in but it isn't an issue or going to slow you down. Always an insignificant amount unless on the descent and then who cares anyways?

If you don't need them then they are just dead weight. I do not know why some cannot figure out what pants and boots keeps the snow out of their boots naturally. I think that is the difference. Or maybe it looks fashionable to some, or they like their legs to sweat...
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby Yank-Tank » Thu Aug 17, 2017 6:42 am

It is a bit like wearing a condom. You can, but you won't get the same feeling.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby mrchad9 » Thu Aug 17, 2017 6:57 pm

That's why I don't.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby clmbr » Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:02 pm

Simkin wrote:Climbed a 5.5 in mechanic's frosted grip gloves. Feels fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iaias3ZWbKI


Those who use GoPro and alike cameras just want to show off their glory, fake the drama. Even 40deg slope looks like a vertical drop, especially if moving your head all around.

I’m not a rock climber, I’m done with that, but the way the axes are used on snow (ice), well on a low angle slope it’s OK but a suicide on steep ice (again it's a lens angle). However, I’m not an expert and definitely don’t follow any rules.

Gloves or gators? That depends on conditions and preference; they are more for comfort than safety (unless...). People often argue about necessity of the helmet and how to lash the ice-axe and ice tools if at all too. And no matter what tools and techniques would be used people will still be dying... Sometimes all it takes is just one tiny mistake and... or because... It's too late to reverse time and methods.

Perhaps he just wants to get more attention to collect extra pennies from google’s ads.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:40 pm

mrchad9 wrote:
ExcitableBoy wrote:
Simkin wrote:
ExcitableBoy wrote:What's cool in allowing snow to fill your boots? Oh, yeah, your feet.

Yes, but can you give a concrete example of anti-gaiter bigotry.

Yes.

I never wear gaiters... not against them I just don't see the point. Never have a real problem getting snow in my boots. Sometimes just a little gets in but it isn't an issue or going to slow you down. Always an insignificant amount unless on the descent and then who cares anyways?

If you don't need them then they are just dead weight. I do not know why some cannot figure out what pants and boots keeps the snow out of their boots naturally. I think that is the difference. Or maybe it looks fashionable to some, or they like their legs to sweat...


I think it depends upon what, where, and when you climb. If you climb one of the Washington stratovolcanoes in early season you can run into isothermal snow conditions where you post hole in wet snow up to your crotch. It is impossible to keep snow out of your boots in those conditions. Climb Rainier in late season and you are climbing on bare glacial ice and neve.
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Re: Experiment: gloves do not make climbing low 5s harder

Postby mrchad9 » Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:55 pm

The early season snow conditions on Washington stratovolcanoes are not very much different than they are on California stratovolcanoes.
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