nartreb wrote:Boot fit is a very personal experience, don't assume that a more expensive pair will work better for you. Try on a bunch and go with what's comfortable. Keep in mind that your experience on the hill may change your mind about how to judge a boot's comfort. You may end up wanting new boots before you tackle Shasta, even if you've already shelled out for the top of the line.
nartreb wrote:Following up now that I actually followed the OP's link to see what he's contemplating. Trangos are good boots, I've got a pair I use for vertical ice. But I wouldn't call them especially light or comfortable - maybe compared to double plastics.
I think the Trangos are way more boot than you need. My choice for Baldy in February was a sub-$100 uninsulated leather work boot - about half the weight of the Trangos, a hell of a lot more comfortable, better waterproofing (pay no attention to claims that gore-tex boots are breathable), and the taller upper is better suited to keeping the snow out. Granted, the Trango's stiffer sole would have been valuable insurance if I'd encountered hard snow or ice (both for kicking steps and to ensure a more secure crampon fit), but I didn't find any ice no matter how hard I looked.
Note, my feet sweat in all weather. You might actually want insulated boots on Baldy if your feet are always cold. (But then, how many days a year will you be able to wear those boots?) It's personal.
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