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First woman to climb 8000m peaks stripped of title

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Postby Zzyzx » Mon Aug 30, 2010 7:00 pm

TimmyC wrote:
Alpinist wrote:Yeah but what I don't get is why the Chief has to shit on other people's accomplishments. What's the point of that? Or is he just trolling for a response?

Whatever...


Listen, I've had an AWESOME summer full of great climbs, many of which I've recorded here on SP in climber's logs. None of the peaks I've summitted this summer are much over 7000' and only one of them was an actual technical climb -- and that one weighed in at a monstrous 5.4ish. Would it devastate me if someone belittled my accomplishment? Hell no. I'm much too pleased with my return to health, with the fact that I can now climb not just a flight of stairs without wheezing and sweating but entire mountains (Baring!! w00t!!!), and with the fact that I'm living up to a promise I made to myself to not be a fat, diabetic, desk jockey anymore.

When one brings one's accomplishments out into public view -- especially when that view is the global newsmedia -- one stands to account for a lot of scrutiny, and varying amounts of that scrutiny is fair or pleasant. The global climbing community, as anyone who posts on SP's forums know with crystal clarity, is almost unbelievably demanding. Depending on how you Venn yourself, "demanding" is easily interchangeable with "shitty." Americans shit on French accomplishments. Men shit on women's accomplishments. Trads shit on sporties' accomplishments. Everyone shits on boulderers' accomplishments (but, like the mad monkeys they are, they throw the shit right back).

Did this lady actually summit? Who knows. But the very split second her accomplishment came into question, it became the climbing community's sacred right to start tearing her down. No one who climbs at that level can claim ignorance of this.

Is it right? Is it fair? No, of course it isn't.

You'll notice I avoid wading into the dangerous waters of who gets more torn-down than whom, because, again, this is a subjective matter based on which demographic you choose as your own.

I read way more than I post here because entering the fray so rarely seems worth it ("Women in climbing," anyone?). But every now and again, there's a frickin' gem of a response that needs me to say "hey, that was really great, thanks." If you graph out who posts on the forums against total membership, you'll find that a disproportionally small number of members make the VAST majority of posts. Much of it is spray, but, every now and again, there's gold, and it can't be found anywhere but buried in the lunatic rantings of rabid SP poster.

Alpinist, you know this. You post here enough to not be able to say something like "I had no idea The Chief was so full of bile and vitriol." Of course he is. He's the Chief. But for all the chest-beating and huffing and puffing he does, there is frickin' gold buried in that crazy brain, and through quiet observation of the forums, it can be teased out and we're all richer for it.

Most of the time, I don't respond to threads like this one because of my severe brevity impairment (a disability I've lived with since I learned to speak) and an allergy to TLDR. But the rest of the time it's because I have nothing constructive to add, and pissing back at someone who's being intentionally shitty doesn't do anything except whip up a frenzy of unneeded anger at no one. As an unintended consequence of this new form of social interaction, many people these days use forums to work out personal issues that in previous generations would have remained buried or that would have required professional help. The Chief has been quite forward about some of the help he's receiving, and many here have supported him. To that end, while it's not my style, I have to at the very least agree with his intent in trying to work to become a better, more whole human being through his interactions here.

Is The Chief being a dick in this case? Yeah, clearly, but whatever. It'll never get back to Ms. Maybe-she-did-maybe-she-didn't. Don't let it bring you down. Go outside today, breathe some non-recycled air, revel in Nature's wonder, behold the majesty of our beautiful world, letting insignificant things like this fall away from you.

Plus, I mean really, The Chief climbs aid, and, as everyone knows, aid climbers are f#ckin' nuts, man.


One of the best posts I read here recently.
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Postby radson » Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:13 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:
FortMental wrote:If the goal had been to climb mountains for their own sake, I doubt that Oh En Sun accomplishments would have been doubted. However, the goal was, in fact, to be the first woman to climb all 14 8,000m peaks. To that end, she should have to prove the following:

1) That she is a woman.
2) That she actually ascended the mountain, using feet, and stood on the summit
3) That she is Korean, if the Koreans are to lay claim to this title

Proving #1 should be easy. Proving #2, given technology today, should also be trivial.

Climbing 13 8,000m peaks is a phenomenal achievement, but irrelevant in this context, as this was not the goal. Shame on her for fucking that up. Kudos to the Korean Alpine Club for calling her to the mat and putting bullshit nationalism aside.


Yay for the hot Spanish chick!


I am actually very surprised nationalistic BS was put aside and her own country called her out..VERY SURPRISED


I agree, without knowing any background it appears the Korean federation has a lot of integrity.

...and regardless, whooaa all 14, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna, G1, Makalu etc. It is terrible that a possible discrepancy or falsehood will detract from such an epic journey.
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Postby kevin trieu » Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:51 pm

Alpinist wrote:
redneck wrote:
The Chief wrote:It is all relative to ones ambitions and aspirations in this game.


True. And clearly these women aspired to do something you have no interest in doing.

We get it.

Yeah but what I don't get is why the Chief has to shit on other people's accomplishments. What's the point of that? Or is he just trolling for a response?

Whatever...


Alpinist, have you done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278)? If you have not done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) then clearly you are a pansy and need to STFU! Get on a Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) line then you can come back and speak with grown men like the Chief. Yeah!
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Postby Alpinist » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:02 pm

kevin trieu wrote:
Alpinist wrote:
redneck wrote:
The Chief wrote:It is all relative to ones ambitions and aspirations in this game.


True. And clearly these women aspired to do something you have no interest in doing.

We get it.

Yeah but what I don't get is why the Chief has to shit on other people's accomplishments. What's the point of that? Or is he just trolling for a response?

Whatever...


Alpinist, have you done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278)? If you have not done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) then clearly you are a pansy and need to STFU! Get on a Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) line then you can come back and speak with grown men like the Chief. Yeah!

I'm not interested in climbing Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278); Ergo Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) is insignificant. :wink:
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Postby The Chief » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:06 pm

mrchad9 wrote:
FortMental wrote:she should have to prove the following:

1) That she is a woman.


First woman to climb 8000m peaks stripped...


With a big ass 10 pound Upper Owens Lahaton Cut stuck in her... ass?

Now that would be something.

ALPINIST, get over it would ya.

It is all a BFD, regardless what FIRST any climber has done.

There are and have been many "FIRST" out there in the long history of this game, regardless of discipline, that most here have no fking idea about nor have they ever been publicly claimed.

SFW... it just doesn't matter to anyone but the ones that did it.
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Postby Alpinisto » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:22 pm

The Chief wrote:SFW... it just doesn't matter to anyone but the ones that did it.


[pulls pin]

...and the all the folks shelling out good coin to hear the motivational speeches and buy the book.

[/throws grenade]


:shock:
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Postby radson » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:25 pm

kevin trieu wrote:
Alpinist wrote:
redneck wrote:
The Chief wrote:It is all relative to ones ambitions and aspirations in this game.


True. And clearly these women aspired to do something you have no interest in doing.

We get it.

Yeah but what I don't get is why the Chief has to shit on other people's accomplishments. What's the point of that? Or is he just trolling for a response?

Whatever...


Alpinist, have you done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278)? If you have not done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) then clearly you are a pansy and need to STFU! Get on a Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) line then you can come back and speak with grown men like the Chief. Yeah!


Not really correct, You must have done Grade 8, A23, B1.F3, WW9(278) barefoot and blindfolded to really have a sense of what it is like to be a korean women climbing all 14 8,000 m peaks.
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Postby The Chief » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:29 pm

Alpinisto wrote:
The Chief wrote:SFW... it just doesn't matter to anyone but the ones that did it.


[pulls pin]

...and the all the folks shelling out good coin to hear the motivational speeches and buy the book.

[/throws grenade]


:shock:


That sure as hell would be a "First" worth remembering, eh!
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Postby simonov » Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:06 pm

The Chief wrote:
redneck wrote:
The Chief wrote:It is all relative to ones ambitions and aspirations in this game.


True. And clearly these women aspired to do something you have no interest in doing.

We get it.


BTW: "We"? Ya got a friend bunny rabbit in your pocket??


By "we" I am referring to every visitor to this forum with a rudimentary command of written English.
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Postby Kai » Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:01 pm

I'm curious. What body has the responsibility for keeping track of "titles"

Who exactly "stripped her of her title?" Wikipedia?

I find the headline silly.
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Postby Buz Groshong » Fri Sep 10, 2010 6:47 pm

Alpinist wrote:
redneck wrote:
The Chief wrote:It is all relative to ones ambitions and aspirations in this game.


True. And clearly these women aspired to do something you have no interest in doing.

We get it.

Yeah but what I don't get is why the Chief has to shit on other people's accomplishments. What's the point of that? Or is he just trolling for a response?

Whatever...


Good point. He says it means nothing to him. He says he doesn't care. So why does he even read the thread, let alone respond to it. :roll:
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Postby simonov » Sat Sep 11, 2010 6:20 pm

Dingus Milktoast wrote:The day there is some 'governing body' to officialize this stuff is the day free mountaineering DIES.


I doubt it. So far, everyone on Summitpost who has commented on such things has emphatically declared his ambivalence about titles and other publicly recognized achievements, again and again, sometimes in all caps.

So the Summitpost contingent, at any rate, will remain unaffected by the emergence of an international governing body that maintains and adjudicates these records.
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