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Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby asmrz » Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:42 am

Number 6 (or whatever #) could be: Do you want to climb any mountain while totally doped? Sucking on O2 all the way to the summit of Everest is just like Tour de France cyclist using drugs. Supplementary Oxygen in this situation is just like doping yourself to do something you could never do otherwise. Climbing Everest while drugged should be completely discredited for what it is; not much.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby 2High » Thu Dec 16, 2010 1:46 am

Worst part about using oyxgen is the fact that when you run out at 25,500 feet or higher your are basically fucked in the ass.
You will have no energy as you will not be accustomed to the climate without the oxygen
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby kozman18 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 2:55 am

asmrz wrote:Number 6 (or whatever #) could be: Do you want to climb any mountain while totally doped? Sucking on O2 all the way to the summit of Everest is just like Tour de France cyclist using drugs. Supplementary Oxygen in this situation is just like doping yourself to do something you could never do otherwise. Climbing Everest while drugged should be completely discredited for what it is; not much.


Not to mention that many (most?) climbers are totally reliant on Sherpas -- most of all, to fix ropes to the summit. So, you are climbing "doped," fixed to a rope set by someone who climbed the mountain in advance to ensure your safety. Not my idea of moutaineering. Yes, still an endurance test, difficult and quite dangerous, but far from an individual accomplishment.

I think the OP missed the mark in his article -- his 5 reasons were pretty generic. For me, these other issues (reliance on O2 and sherpas) are far more compelling reasons to save $65,000 and go climb somewhere I can test my own skills. I could take a lot of kick-ass trips for $65K . . .
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby Joe White » Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:21 am

KristoriaBlack wrote:
Joe White wrote:I just can't get over the cost issue. $10,000-25,000 for a permit from the government of Nepal?! And that's, not including all the other costs associated with expeditions. It's amazing to me how much disposable income people have (or have saved) to climb big mountains.


Different folks have different priorities, that's all.


Yep...and that's the heart of the issue, I suppose.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby Joe White » Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:27 am

I just got done reading this book:

Image

This book really began to shape my thinking around issues such as the business side of marketing everest, guiding, and expensive expeditions in poor countries.

....also, please understand I don't intend any disrespect for those who have climbed Everest. You obviously put a lot of hard work, commitment, training, and money into something really special.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby mrchad9 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:14 am

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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby Bill Kerr » Thu Dec 16, 2010 3:50 pm

What happened to the lengthy thread on Everest that started with Will Gadd's article about Everest no longer being significant from a climbing perspective?

I found it on google search http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/everest-rant-good-stuff-from-will-gadd-t54500.html

Original Explore mag link http://explore-mag.com/article/places/mountain-hype-everest/

Slogging up Everest on the regular route, guided, aided by Sherpas, with oxygen and drugs is still a big individual physical and mental achievement but it no longer is of note as a climbing acheivement. The people that pay big money to do this are part of an exclusive group who can afford the money and time to do it but they are no where close to the elite of the climbing world.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby asmrz » Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:11 pm

Regarding the costs and style of climbing on 8,000 meter peaks, many competent and committed weekenders can attempt regular routes on these peaks. It is the climbing industry that says you need guides, sherpas, medical staff etc. That is not really true. Private trips of small parties can be arranged for fraction of the costs mentioned. It is attitude of the party planning the trip that matters. If you can think of going up these peaks the same way you and your partner go up three day trip into ex.Sierra or Cascades than you have a good start. The most expensive item is the permit which can be shared among 6 to 8 people. Sherpas are not needed. The team can be self-supporting. These trips are not as complicated as many people make them and oxygen is not needed for most of the 8k peaks. Attitude is what matters and the audacity to try.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby Dow Williams » Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:12 pm

Bill Kerr wrote:What happened to the lengthy thread on Everest that started with Will Gadd's article about Everest no longer being significant from a climbing perspective?


Who knows. Most of the threads I start are good for about two or three pages, then get lost in translation....mostly insecure gear whores and tourists who watch stories (from their living room) of Everest, death and mayhem in awe who assume the original post was directed at them personally. As the original poster of the one above which did bring about some worthwhile discussion, I soon lose interest and can only imagine what direction such threads take off in. I am constantly surprised at how few real adventurers and climbers there are on SP. If gear manufacturers and retailers truly had to rely on folks who needed and/or utilized the gear they sell, they would be bankrupt in a hurry. Thank god for the internets! (sp)
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby Dow Williams » Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:37 pm

It is all good Kristoria, I like your attitude....but keep in mind, all this progression in rock climbing, ice climbing and aid climbing is not needed to climb Everest. If it is truly important to you, it is all about conditioning, money and altitude training. The route all these speakers go out and climb to enhance their career is more of an expensive marathon via tightly controlled tourist parameters than a climb. The biggest "con" for most climbers outside of the money is the actual loss of rock climbing, ice climbing and/or aid climbing for months on end! Good Luck.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby radson » Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:52 pm

From a climbing standpoint there are much more than 2 routes up the mountain, it's umm kind of a big hill.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby Dow Williams » Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:55 pm

radson wrote:From a climbing standpoint there are much more than 2 routes up the mountain, it's umm kind of a big hill.

Which one do you or any other SPers have a permit or ability to climb or have climbed? Which one are we discussing?
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby radson » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:14 pm

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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby radson » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:40 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:
KristoriaBlack wrote:I'd do it in a heart beat if only I had 30-80K worth of possessions I could sell off.



I would do it in a heart beat if someone covered my permit costs (any volunteers?). Even getting up to 4th camp or something would be fun...even to see it and hang in the base camp would be interesting IMO! It is a big adventure no matter what. It may not be the greatest thing in alpinism (to take a standard route), but still fun for whoever does it.



Vitaliy, thats why some people climb Lhotse. Most of the experience for a substantially reduced cost.
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Re: Five Reasons Why Not to Climb Mount Everest

Postby asmrz » Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:43 pm

"If you can think of going up these peaks the same way you and your partner go up three day trip into ex.Sierra or Cascades than you have a good start."

In this statement I was trying to point out, that climbing 8,000m peak is not much different than climbing any other peak anywhere.
If you go on extended climbing trips in the lower ranges (most of us do) than you have the concept pretty much down. 6-8 people as a team, working together, yet climbing as separate teams of two, just like you would do in the Sierra or Cascades, that is the concept. British climbers pioneered the concept of "Lighweight Expeditions to the Great Ranges" in the early 80s. There is a book of that or similar name written I believe by the late Allan Rouse, that explains the how pretty well. I can guarantee you it works, but requires a team of people who know each other well, can work together and have no weak spots in alpine terrain. I have been on several trips organised this way by us, the participants. Vitalyi, permit money can be had, do slide shows, sell t-shirts, anything to get most of the money for permit. Use your own alpine tents, your used climbing gear, ice screws, packs, you don't need the most expensive, brand new gear to go to 7 or even 8K. One needs to be in very good shape, be very comfortable in alpine terrain, have an inordinate ammount of self supporting attitude, have some level of leadership qualities and be a member of a team that can tackle things independently, but pulls together. If you can think it, you can start pursuing it.
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