Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Grading systems?

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
 

Grading systems?

Postby Clark_Griswold » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:28 pm

From looking at other mountains in the world, one can see that there are other rating systems than the YDS. For example, on the Matterhorn there are routes that are rated "D", "AD+", and "AD-", and even "UIAA III-".

Wikipedia has a page on climbing rating systems, with a chart that corresponds from one rating on a given system to another system and the equivalent rating.


I don't see the ratings given on the Matterhorn routes in this chart and am wonder if perhaps the ratings are less than a YDS 5.0 equivalent, or if there is another reason. If you know what the ratings above correspond to in the YDS, what is it?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)#Free_climbing_ratings_comparison_table
User Avatar
Clark_Griswold

 
Posts: 1704
Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:51 am
Location: The fat Cottonwod, New Mexico, United States
Thanked: 301 times in 230 posts

Postby Fred Spicker » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:36 pm

http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/17 ... facts.html

The F, D, AD, etc. used by UIAA are the same "overall" rating for climbs as are NCCS Grades in the USA.

UIAA "Grades" of I, II, III, etc. are individual pitch ratings as are Class 4, 5.2, 5.7, etc. in the YDS system.
User Avatar
Fred Spicker

 
Posts: 1284
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 5:47 am
Location: Spokane, Washington, United States
Thanked: 51 times in 30 posts

Postby kamil » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:30 pm

I'm not familiar with YDS but from the descriptions I've read, UIAA I is more like YDS class 3/low 4, II is about class 4 (maybe low 5) and III is about 5.1-5.4 (?) ... it's all approximate.
User Avatar
kamil

 
Posts: 598
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:31 pm
Location: Aódź, Poland
Thanked: 22 times in 17 posts

Postby Fred Spicker » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:33 pm

kamil wrote:I'm not familiar with YDS but from the descriptions I've read, UIAA I is more like YDS class 3, II is about class 4 and III is low 5 (5.0-5.4?)... it's all approximate.


That is correct, the UIAA grades only address climbing with the use of hands whereas YDS Class 1 is basically trail walking and Class 2 is rough off trail walking.
User Avatar
Fred Spicker

 
Posts: 1284
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 5:47 am
Location: Spokane, Washington, United States
Thanked: 51 times in 30 posts

Postby Buckaroo » Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:11 pm

Fred Spicker wrote:http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/173430/handy-alpine-grade-facts.html

The F, D, AD, etc. used by UIAA are the same "overall" rating for climbs as are NCCS Grades in the USA.

UIAA "Grades" of I, II, III, etc. are individual pitch ratings as are Class 4, 5.2, 5.7, etc. in the YDS system.



F, D, AD, etc UIAA and USA Grades I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII. grade overall difficulty, length and average time to complete

UIAA grades, I, II, III etc and YDS Class 4, 5.7 etc are individual pitch ratings and are used to rate multi pitch and alpine climbs, IE. Liberty Crack. Grade V, 5.10 C2
User Avatar
Buckaroo

 
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 4:49 pm
Location: tukwila, Washington, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

Postby Fred Spicker » Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:04 pm

Buckaroo wrote:
Fred Spicker wrote:http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/173430/handy-alpine-grade-facts.html

The F, D, AD, etc. used by UIAA are the same "overall" rating for climbs as are NCCS Grades in the USA.

UIAA "Grades" of I, II, III, etc. are individual pitch ratings as are Class 4, 5.2, 5.7, etc. in the YDS system.



F, D, AD, etc UIAA and USA Grades I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII. grade overall difficulty, length and average time to complete

UIAA grades, I, II, III etc and YDS Class 4, 5.7 etc are individual pitch ratings and are used to rate multi pitch and alpine climbs, IE. Liberty Crack. Grade V, 5.10 C2


Is that not what I said??
User Avatar
Fred Spicker

 
Posts: 1284
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 5:47 am
Location: Spokane, Washington, United States
Thanked: 51 times in 30 posts

Postby Buckaroo » Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:28 am

Fred Spicker wrote:
Is that not what I said??


Pretty much...

I just expounded a little and added that the YDS applies to routes not just individual pitches
User Avatar
Buckaroo

 
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 4:49 pm
Location: tukwila, Washington, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

Postby FabienenCordoba » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:10 pm

An article on the overall alpine grade used in the Alps was published on camptocamp.org : http://www.camptocamp.org/articles/188413/en

It details how the grade is built on the basis of the maximum technical difficulty of a route (be it on rock, snow, ice, mixed or even aid) with a weighting applied to take into account committment, rock quality, complexity and difficulty of approaches and descents etc. The article gives detailed examples of how a route got graded.
User Avatar
FabienenCordoba

 
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:22 pm
Location: Grenoble, France
Thanked: 2 times in 2 posts


Return to General

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.