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Grading systems?

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Postby Fred Spicker » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:36 pm

http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/17 ... facts.html

The F, D, AD, etc. used by UIAA are the same "overall" rating for climbs as are NCCS Grades in the USA.

UIAA "Grades" of I, II, III, etc. are individual pitch ratings as are Class 4, 5.2, 5.7, etc. in the YDS system.
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Postby kamil » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:30 pm

I'm not familiar with YDS but from the descriptions I've read, UIAA I is more like YDS class 3/low 4, II is about class 4 (maybe low 5) and III is about 5.1-5.4 (?) ... it's all approximate.
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Postby Fred Spicker » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:33 pm

kamil wrote:I'm not familiar with YDS but from the descriptions I've read, UIAA I is more like YDS class 3, II is about class 4 and III is low 5 (5.0-5.4?)... it's all approximate.


That is correct, the UIAA grades only address climbing with the use of hands whereas YDS Class 1 is basically trail walking and Class 2 is rough off trail walking.
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Postby Buckaroo » Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:11 pm

Fred Spicker wrote:http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/173430/handy-alpine-grade-facts.html

The F, D, AD, etc. used by UIAA are the same "overall" rating for climbs as are NCCS Grades in the USA.

UIAA "Grades" of I, II, III, etc. are individual pitch ratings as are Class 4, 5.2, 5.7, etc. in the YDS system.



F, D, AD, etc UIAA and USA Grades I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII. grade overall difficulty, length and average time to complete

UIAA grades, I, II, III etc and YDS Class 4, 5.7 etc are individual pitch ratings and are used to rate multi pitch and alpine climbs, IE. Liberty Crack. Grade V, 5.10 C2
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Postby Fred Spicker » Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:04 pm

Buckaroo wrote:
Fred Spicker wrote:http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/173430/handy-alpine-grade-facts.html

The F, D, AD, etc. used by UIAA are the same "overall" rating for climbs as are NCCS Grades in the USA.

UIAA "Grades" of I, II, III, etc. are individual pitch ratings as are Class 4, 5.2, 5.7, etc. in the YDS system.



F, D, AD, etc UIAA and USA Grades I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII. grade overall difficulty, length and average time to complete

UIAA grades, I, II, III etc and YDS Class 4, 5.7 etc are individual pitch ratings and are used to rate multi pitch and alpine climbs, IE. Liberty Crack. Grade V, 5.10 C2


Is that not what I said??
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Postby Buckaroo » Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:28 am

Fred Spicker wrote:
Is that not what I said??


Pretty much...

I just expounded a little and added that the YDS applies to routes not just individual pitches
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Postby FabienenCordoba » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:10 pm

An article on the overall alpine grade used in the Alps was published on camptocamp.org : http://www.camptocamp.org/articles/188413/en

It details how the grade is built on the basis of the maximum technical difficulty of a route (be it on rock, snow, ice, mixed or even aid) with a weighting applied to take into account committment, rock quality, complexity and difficulty of approaches and descents etc. The article gives detailed examples of how a route got graded.
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