Great rock climbs

by **Diego Sahagún** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 12:12 am

The Chief wrote:This is definitely the toughest mindfuck Sport Route on the planet! Sharma won't touch it, Glowacz walked away after the first Pitch and Gullich never finished it!

Edit: Photo

by **Diego Sahagún** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 12:52 am

Ramonet repite Definición de resistencia demócrata (9a+)

by **atavist** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 2:50 am

desainme wrote:Here is an OW called Hidden Dragon:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRBir-aCCCs

[/quote]

That is some slick camera work. Sweet climbing.

by **ksolem** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:09 pm

The Chief wrote: This is definitely the toughest mindfuck Sport Route on the planet! Sharma won't touch it, Glowacz walked away after the first Pitch and Gullich never finished it!

The B&Y is a sport climb?? Not. :roll:

by **Dave Daly** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:24 pm

In light of its location and fixed pro, I have to agree with Kris. IMO, this ain't no sport climb! :shock:

by **Diego Sahagún** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:18 pm

Patxi Usobiaga repite La Rambla (9a+).

Andrada nos habla del 9b

by **savage henry** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:03 am

The B-Y a SPORT climb???? Yeah right.

That's a bolt protected traditional climb. In my mind "bolts only protection does not a sport climb make". The way I see it sport climbs aren't put up ground up. I know this isn't neccessarily the case with the climbing communitie's definition of sport climb but in my book if you bolt something ground up (bolt into submission, or sparsley) its a trad climb since it went in ground up. Flame away...
-JR

by **ksolem** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 6:27 pm

savage henry wrote:The B-Y a SPORT climb???? Yeah right.

That's a bolt protected traditional climb. In my mind "bolts only protection does not a sport climb make". The way I see it sport climbs aren't put up ground up. I know this isn't neccessarily the case with the climbing communitie's definition of sport climb but in my book if you bolt something ground up (bolt into submission, or sparsley) its a trad climb since it went in ground up. Flame away...
-JR

I'll pretty much agree with you on that. Sport climbing = safe and convenient, and in many cases bolted top down though not always. Most sport climbers could care less about the style of the first descent or ascent as the case may be... Of course sport climbs can be very hard, in fact the relative safety of sport climbing has resulted in the most physically and technically challenging free climbs.

Routes like the B and Y are traditional climbs done ground up and protected by bolts. By todays standards the B&Y is not even very hard, but as The Chief points out some top notch climbers avoid it due to it's seriousness.

If you want to know more about trad routes with bolts, spend some quality time in Joshua Tree too...