CClaude wrote:I propose that unless you are looking to climb 5.13 sport or upper 5.13 trad or harder, there is no reason to use a hangboard. The only reason that I use them this summer and fall is I missed most of the summer with knee surgery and am looking on getting back onto "Learning to Fly" to train for Zion.
At this stage of the game, get out and work on technique. Technique will get you the farthest at this point.
Excessive weight isn't good ince it will put extra stress on tendons. A healthy diet and working out, and just getting out climbing will do wonders with this.
Don't get injuried! Allow yourself to progress at a reasonable rate, allowing the tendons and ligaments to accomadate he new stresses. Don't climb hard everyday. Take rest days!
On top of the excers izes that rick recommended, work on both internal and external rotator cuff excersizes. Google Aimee Roseborrough and stonewear designs. She had a vide o of the excersizes on one of there Friday afternoon tips. She gives some advise about training for climbing from the perspective of a physical therapist who is also a 5.13 sports climber ( also a reasonable trad climber, Iknow this since she used to be my neighbor)
Thanks! I will give Roseborrough a look-see.