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Help me with my goals...

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
 

Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby michellen » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:03 pm

I am curious to hear what they say, so please share it here when you've had a chance to talk to them. I am also curious, if you don't mind my asking, what guides you'd consider climbing Ama Dablam with. Thanks. Thanks, too, for bringing back the recent memory of going up Heartbreak Hill tired, hot and thirsty :)
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:25 pm

Do not do it guided. Pick a goal you and your partner can work up to without someone telling you when and what to do. You are a grown up. Competent mountaineer should be able to make own decisions.
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby michellen » Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:01 pm

Thanks for sharing that Fletch. Good luck to you as you work on your goals!
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby stinkydog » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:44 am

In my very humble opinion (with no experience on any of those 5 peaks), I'd say make the expedition itself your goal, rather than each summit. Because they're all pretty exotic areas of the world. Take some extra time to trek and explore. You can be the most in-shape stoked, well-equipped, and skilled mofo in the world, but there's a good chance you'll have a run of crappy weather during the allocated timespan you've been planning for years in advance. If you don't reach the summit due to whatever factor - no big deal, you'll still have a really cool experience to remember and share.
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:57 am

Another reason to go unguided- you can have as many summit shots as you want.
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby Noondueler » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:52 am

Cannot help you with goals. Mind is everything. With goals you are trapped by mind.
OK I confess I wish had such lofty goals. Shucks.
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby Damien Gildea » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:18 pm

Fletch,

If you cruised Denali then you'll have no trouble with Vinson. Most of the main guides services do it fine, though given the short timeframe of a trip there (c.12 days) sometimes, an experienced guide can make the best decision to work around any weather issues. Vinson is easy until it gets bad - then it gets real bad. Maybe you should climb Vinson soon, as later you'll feel bad spending that much money on something other than your kids ;-)

Ama Dablam? Hopefully radson can jump in and give you first-hand comparisons with Denali etc. It seems to be jumaring fixed ropes over all the rock, so not sure how much actual 'climbing' is involved. Note the ropes are there in Oct-Nov-early Dec, not in April-May when the rock is more likely to be covered in snow. Despite the ropes and crowds, it's a natural line up a stunning peak. Relatively safe and accessible, as far as Himalayan peaks go, so possibly a good one to squeeze into a month later when you have kids.

I've been on G1, not G2, though they share the route up to C1. G2 has had a few changes over the years and can be a tough climb, even when mostly fixed. Big Himalayan peaks are quite a different story to Denali, Vinson etc as they really require a decent spell of good weather, which is rare, especially up the Baltoro, and to have enough teams on the mountain to do the work necessary for most of us mortals to climb them. You have the 3rd world travel, hassle and sickness issues, longer timeframe, and even more will-sapping altitude and conditions. Very few guide companies have success on G2, despite its reputation, and so nowadays very few companies go. Manaslu is easier, though more dangerous. Not sure how justifiable any of those peaks are for a family man, opinions vary.

Logan? You can get guided up the King Trench route OK, it seems, though the east ridge is a nicer looking route. ER would be harder than Denali or Vinson, more work, just as cold. I think the KT is not without avo danger. I almost went there this year, but went to Peru instead. Logan KT is relatively quick, cheap and close for you, so another option for later with kids.
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby Clark_Griswold » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:37 pm

Fletch wrote: the Mrs is seriously talking kids now. Need to get a plan.

Please help me out with what I should do next...

Do you want kids? If not, a vasectomy can work wonder and confuse the Mrs. Imagine all the fail trying you could have, and never have to deal with all the problems children create.
...
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Re: Help me with my goals...

Postby Hotoven » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:46 pm

Wait I'm confused, how did Mt. Hell Sunflower not make it on your list? Surely that should be your final goal in all this?
"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!"
- The Dude, Lebowski
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