If the Mountaineer has Nepal Evos why not try renting them? They are great boots - more comfortable, flexible and sensitive for ice climbing than doubles, quite warm for a single boot, and relatively durable compared to synthetic boots. If they fit well and aren't too cold for you, then you will have a great boot for most climbing in the lower 48. You can always buy a heavier and warmer boot when you need it.

I've never seen Baruntse's in any rental fleet. Nepal EVOs are great boots, and likely to fit your thin frame better than most brands, however, they are not a boot for Alaska. They will get up just about everything in the CONUS - Mt Rainier, ice climbing in the NE, alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies though. One thing to try, is buy a pair of used double boots, I have seen barely used $300 boots for $99 at Second Ascent, and get thermo molded Intuition liners for a better fit.

Another thought; have you looked at La Sportiva Nuptse? You might find a good deal on these and they may be your answer.

I am looking for a double boot to be able to dry the liners on multi-day winter backpacking trips, so the EVO's are out. I might rent them just to see about fit on the same size before springing for Baruntse's hoping the fit will be similar.

For used plastic boots with new liners, I was hoping to be able to go that way originally. After trying on the Baruntse's though, the fit was just so much better then the Lowa, Scarpa, and Koflachs I've been able to try on and use that I can't see getting any of them. There are still some plastic boots out there like the Asolos which I have not been able to find to try on. But really what it comes down to is that there is just to much width and height, and not enough length, in the plastic boots I have tried. At this point I feel it would take alot of rigging and weight to make a pair of them fit me correctly.

I think the Nuptse's would probably be a great boot for me as well. I haven't found any on forums/ebay but I am watching. If anyone has a line on 45.5, possibly 46's but I haven't tried them on yet, I am interested.

Try the Scarpa's again with a $30 Superfeet insole. With the laces wrenched down and you still getting movement, you need to take up volume. The Lowa Civetta won't fit you if your foot is skinny. They are built for Fred Flintstone's feet. I wouldn't worry too much about the paint being off on the plastic. If you use the boots a couple of times, there won't be paint there anyway.

If too much volume is the problem, Scarpas are not the answer. You will inevitaby get a better fit with a narrower lasted boots like La Sportiva.

Denjem wrote:Try the Scarpa's again with a $30 Superfeet insole.

Superfeet have gone up to $40!

I know its been a while but I wanted to update this thread for anyone who might find it in the future. I did go with the Baruntses. I haven't put them to the test yet as it is just getting into season now, but the fit and features on them are better than any other for me. Managed to get a good price on them in the off season.

I have both the Nepal EVOs and Baruntse and can't say enough good about both, for me. Boots, IMO, are a very person-specific thing. The Nepals were, at first, not comfortable, and to be quite honest hell, until I got them broken in (I guess pretty standard for leathers). It took about maybe 30ish hours of hard hiking and many insole and sock combos before I found the right recipe. From then on they became more and more comfortable to the point where I actually enjoyed wearing them. They became old friends. My feet tend to run a tad cold, not alot, but enough to seriously consider a double for colder winter adventures. After much online research and consideration I purchased a pair of Baruntses. I molded the liners myself at home and got the fit, luckily, perfect the first time. They have proven to be toasty warm when conditions are a bit too much for the Nepals or when going on longer trips when I can put the liner in my bag at night. Both have been used on ice climbing trips, and although I consider the Nepals a "first line" choice for me I wouldn't hesitate to wear my Baruntses if temps were low. Dane's at Cold Thistle has alot of info on this boot at his blog.