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How are the California Couloirs doing these days?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Postby Kurt Wedberg » Thu Aug 06, 2009 10:54 pm

Here's the right and left Mendel Couloir's on July 23:

Image
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Postby rhyang » Mon Aug 17, 2009 8:13 pm

Feather Couloir from Bear Creek Spire yesterday -

Image

Looks pretty snowy still .. maybe ice in another month or so ?

Also got a few shots of the Dana Couloir on Saturday -

Image

Image

Image

Looked to be some ice starting to form on the left. No bergschrund yet that I could see.

All pics above are clickable in case you want the original hi-res images.
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Postby pjc30943 » Sun Aug 23, 2009 5:32 am

Anyone have beta on Gilbert? Just curious what the north couloir conditions are like.
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Postby PellucidWombat » Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:57 am

Does anyone have any beta on the couloirs around the Palisade Glacier & environs? I'm planning on climbing the North Couloir on Thunderbolt next weekend and I'm wondering whether to expect neve or ice.
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Postby pjc30943 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:10 pm

PellucidWombat wrote:Does anyone have any beta on the couloirs around the Palisade Glacier & environs? I'm planning on climbing the North Couloir on Thunderbolt next weekend and I'm wondering whether to expect neve or ice.


Two weeks or so ago it was ice on the bottom, neve on the rest. That probably has changed a bit and I'm sure others have more recent photos.

Here's an image of the interface where the avy occurred:

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6058/nc1.jpg


And an overview (with a fogged up camera lens)

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/8580/nc2a.jpg

EDIT: changed to imageshack
Last edited by pjc30943 on Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby fatdad » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:25 pm

Dang, the Dana Couloir is looking pretty skinny up near the top. In a few years, it looks like that portion may melt out completely.
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Postby PellucidWombat » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:25 am

thanks PJ! I'll be sure to contribute some up to date pics of that couloir and others in the Palisade region after this weekend :-)
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Postby PellucidWombat » Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:13 am

oh, and Paul, what route did you guys climb? The North Ridge linking Thunderbolt with Winchell? If so,what do you think about climbing up where you rapped down? I'm wondering how difficult that route is to downclimb as a traverse to Winchell.
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Postby jrbouldin » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:15 pm

Anything on Red Slate also appreciated, thanks.
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Postby The Chief » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:29 pm

Red Slate is TOTALLY IN from top to bottom and looking very good!

Was gonna head up there this weekend to do a circum lap but got side tracked with putting up routes and doing local anchor maintenance.
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Postby jrbouldin » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:43 pm

Excellent. Gracias Chief.
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Postby WML » Thu Sep 03, 2009 3:13 pm

any RECENT Mendel beta? Aside from pictures from a distance...anybody get into the couloirs and take a look?
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Postby pjc30943 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:22 am

PellucidWombat wrote:oh, and Paul, what route did you guys climb? The North Ridge linking Thunderbolt with Winchell? If so,what do you think about climbing up where you rapped down? I'm wondering how difficult that route is to downclimb as a traverse to Winchell.


Yes, we went up the NW ridge. How'd you know we rapped? Anyways, it would probably be okay to climb *up* those first two pitches with pro. There also might be easier ways up than the way we went with the two raps, for example on the snow/ice until the rock is less steep. Doable as long as the schrund is still in good shape as it was then. Lots of loose rock though in general to knock down with a rope.
As for downclimbing the ridge, others might know more, but here's my take. You'd have to climb a few (2? 3?) 5th class notches, some of which might not have rap stations on the other side that you'd be coming from, though at least one of them does. So maybe leaving a few slings/rings/biners might be necessary if you want to rap past 5th class parts in the notches. Also the rock is loose in a few sections. Since there are a fair bit of exposed 4th and some 5th on the path where we went up, I definitely wouldn't want to be downclimbing that ridge, but there may be easier ways. The large amounts of loose rock made everything take forever. But probably people with more skill would have no trouble:D If I had to go back down that ridge, I'd be planning to leave a ton of cord.
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Postby The Chief » Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:49 am

Possibly next Tuesday or Weds Dingus.

Working on a wall project in Pine Creek thru Monday.

Ya wanna join me for a run up the two Couloir's on NP????
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