I was in the Huayhuash this season just been, attempting Rasac (6014m), while we also met some Polish chaps attempting Yerupaja. Hopefully the following will help elucidate your dreams / goals..
- 5 hrs on a bus to the village where you can hire burros and an arriero..
- approx 5 hours solid walk to basecamp (janaccocha lake or something). one of the polish guys did it in jandals (right nutter); needless to say he wont be doing it again!
- off-track navigation is essential as there are no routes once of the trekking track
- steep knife blade slopes, with many severely overhung cornices (avos releasing continuously)
- considerable lack of snow in 2010 season made many peaks mixed lines where previously were sound ice and snow lines
- glaciers are becoming increasingly cut up (as noted) so adds to difficulty of access
- definitely want Frimmers book. Caught up with him in Huaraz, he would happily return emails if you email him for beta (my impression).
- our two parties were some of the very few going into the huayhuash to climb, it is very under-climbed, probably for all the reasons above!
- neither our team or the Polish team summited. In the end the access prevented both teams from getting onto the mountain proper, and neither party are novice in Cordillera climbing!