Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

I need a new rope

Post climbing gear-related questions, offer advice. For classifieds, please use that forum.
 

I need a new rope

Postby nbaisburd » Wed Dec 21, 2011 5:58 am

I need to buy a rope and I can’t decide between the two. Does anyone have any experience with these two ropes Mammut Genesis 8.5mm x 60m Rope or Sterling Evolution Duetto 8.4 mm x 60 m Dry Rope?
User Avatar
nbaisburd

 
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:17 am
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: I need a new rope

Postby aedwards » Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:47 pm

I have used the Mammut Genesis, and thought they were nice. Two friends of mine have a set.
They handle really well, stacked well in pairs without much tangling to speak of. Light.
If I were buying a pair, which will probably be soon, I'd probably get the Mammut.
Haven't used the sterling. Also probably good.

Might be a 'get the one with the best price thing'.

Using for steep stuff, or a single for glacier, etc?
User Avatar
aedwards

 
Posts: 204
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:00 pm
Location: Jackson, Wyoming, United States
Thanked: 7 times in 6 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby Autoxfil » Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:15 pm

I love the Genesis. Mammut ropes are rather stiff, which makes sling cords less likely to tangle.
User Avatar
Autoxfil

 
Posts: 558
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:40 pm
Location: NEPA and Upper Jay, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 29 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby Hotoven » Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:35 pm

I use a pair of Mammut Genesis's, no complaints, never used the Evolution though.
"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!"
- The Dude, Lebowski
User Avatar
Hotoven

 
Posts: 1863
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:06 pm
Location: Summit County, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 115 times in 87 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby FRhoderick » Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:04 am

Genesis 8.5's are pretty nice. That would be my suggestion. They handle well and provide a nice catch.
User Avatar
FRhoderick

 
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:30 am
Location: Missoula, Montana, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:32 am

I've used both half and single Mammut ropes and have always liked them. If price is no object, look at the Edelweiss 8.5 mm Sharp ropes. I have a pair and they are the best handling, most durable ropes I have used. The Sharp protection makes me feel warm and fuzzy when using a single strand on moderate alpine routes and when following on a single strand when climbing as a party of three.

Image Single strand of half rope on 'moderate' overhanging AI 5.

Image Single strand of half rope on 'moderate' 5.8+ alpine rock.
User Avatar
ExcitableBoy

 
Posts: 2886
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:33 am
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Thanked: 424 times in 308 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby Gafoto » Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:19 am

Is there any way I could piggyback a question onto this? I don't think it's worth me making another thread. I'm looking at buying a rope and could use a recommendation. I'm planning on getting into more climbing this spring/summer and I'm at the point where I can comfortably upclimb rock that is incredibly tedious and dangerous to downclimb. I found myself thinking that my life would be a little easier as I downclimbed past a rap ring below the west ridge of Mt. Darwin in October.

I want something that I can haul up on a mountain like North Palisade (that mountain actually being the #1 reason I want a rope for this coming year). Ideally I'd also like it to be useful for doing some light sport and ice climbing. Unfortunately I'm 6'4" 235 lbs and I'm wondering what size rope I should get to have that sweet spot of enough friction while simultaneously not hauling up the kitchen sink. I want everything!

Anything off Backcountry.com is fair game since I have a discount there.
User Avatar
Gafoto

 
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:08 am
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, United States
Thanked: 20 times in 16 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:25 am

When you say light sport and ice climbing are you talking about fifth class climbing and frozen waterfalls? If so, I would recommend a pair of half ropes or a light single rope. Using a half rope as a single takes some measure of judgement, when to double it for hard sections. Using a single rope or a pair of doubles are much safter if you are planning on technical climbing.
User Avatar
ExcitableBoy

 
Posts: 2886
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:33 am
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Thanked: 424 times in 308 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby Gafoto » Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:32 am

Yes, I'm thinking just some crag climbing with friends. I'd like to take an ice climbing course this winter, but we'll see if I ever have a day off that works with that. I feel like a single rope like this, would make the most sense but I'm certainly open to some other suggestions. I've never climbed with a half rope setup before so I'm more inclined to stick with simplicity, even if it costs me some weight.

What I really want to do is learn ice climbing technique so I can do some of the couloirs in the Sierra this fall. After looking at the north side Mt. Darwin and Mt. Mendel I decided I really need to learn how to climb ice. Also since I'm working at Backcountry.com for the winter now is the time to invest in this kind of gear.
Last edited by Gafoto on Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
User Avatar
Gafoto

 
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:08 am
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, United States
Thanked: 20 times in 16 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:37 am

That Mammut rope looks perfect. I find a single 60 meter is long enough to get me off most stuff, and the ones that are <10 mm are plenty light yet reasonably durable. My single rope is 60 meters, 9.8 mm, so obviously I think its a good choice.
User Avatar
ExcitableBoy

 
Posts: 2886
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:33 am
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Thanked: 424 times in 308 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby FRhoderick » Sat Dec 24, 2011 4:10 am

As another option to the Tusk I would suggest the Mammut Revelation 9.2. Great rope
User Avatar
FRhoderick

 
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:30 am
Location: Missoula, Montana, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby Gafoto » Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:34 pm

Am I going to be easily able to control my speed when rappelling easily? I'm not questioning your suggestion just wondering what the cutoff point is here (or do I just need to get an ATC with higher friction control?). Obviously I'd prefer the lighter rope but I don't want to be melting my ATC. Realistically I might be rappelling with 250 lbs of weight on the rope.
User Avatar
Gafoto

 
Posts: 212
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:08 am
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, United States
Thanked: 20 times in 16 posts

Re: I need a new rope

Postby Autoxfil » Sat Dec 24, 2011 2:34 pm

Controlling speed won't be an issue, even at your size. My partner is over 200lb and he raps on a 9.2 single strand all the time.

The 9.8 is not much more weight than the 9.2, but will offer a lot more durability. That's the tradeoff - falling on or rapping on a really skinny rope wears them out fast.

This is my personal approach. Others may disagree, but it works for me:

11mm - beater top-rope rope, aid soling. Takes huge abuse without complaint.
10mm - general use. Lots of cragging, single/multi-pitch, my go-to rope when I think I'm gonna whip.
9mm single - long alpine climbs with big approach and hard climbing. Light, easy to pull through a device at the belays, but tough enough for real climbing.
8 or 8.5mm double as single - 4th class, steep snow/easy ice. This is what I bring when we might rope up, but we might not. I certainly never plan on falling on it, and probably not even rapping.
User Avatar
Autoxfil

 
Posts: 558
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:40 pm
Location: NEPA and Upper Jay, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 29 posts

The following user would like to thank Autoxfil for this post
jdenyes


Return to Gear

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.