Mark Straub wrote: ....... I don't get much better by climbing at the grade I won't fall on. I get better by trying things above my abilities to figure out how to climb them cleanly and efficiently after falling on them.
But, Mark, I was trying to point out the fact that so many people can't do the opening moves, well below what will be found at the dam crux. You have it right when you point out the "cleanly and efficiently" part. That is at the core of hard rockclimbing.