Mark Straub wrote: Guyzo wrote: Mark Straub wrote:
Rocker Paully wrote:I try to shy away from top roping routes because a lot of time it's hard on the rope and you have to walk around or climb up to the anchors. Plus, the rope also gets in your way. You also don't get any pucker factor and focus from getting run-out when you are TRing cuz you can't get run-out, where's the fun in that??
Falling can be fun at times or at least exhilarating
With TRing, how do you learn how to take falls, place gear and trust gear to catch you? I'm a firm believer that the most important thing for folks learning how to lead trad is to take a fall on a piece of gear. I see a lot of people afraid to lead anything above 5.8 because they don't want to fall on trad gear.
I'm afraid to lead anything above 5.7. I'm fairly new, but I don't want to fall on lead. I've heard too many bad stories. I'm not afraid of my gear placements, I'm afraid of hitting a ledge.
Pretty smart of you. I have been climbing for a long time. I don't think I have fallen on 5.6 ever. If I did I would most likely be dead. It is good to understand that this sport can kill you and learn just what you don't do if you wish to keep climbing.
Place that gear really well and don't fall
Keep placing good gear .... climb your hardest.. and one day you will take that long flier.
I bet the climb will be much harder than some 5.8....
I am afraid of ledges too, so my thing is this. the steeper the better
Exactly! Since I'm not good enough to climb that steep stuff yet, I need to work it on toprope so that I can get the moves down and therefore be secure enough to lead harder, and fall safer. I might practice my first fall on something with a clean runout this weekend at Index, if weather is good.
There are trad lines you obviously don't want to fall on, but you can hop on a steep 5.10 jam crack that takes awesome cam placements every 3 feet and then take a fall. Trad gear will catch you if placed correctly!! Just don't lobe out any cams and watch for bad rock. I've had some very marginal pieces catch me before and I've never had a piece pull (except on an Aid lead in dirt) because I don't do free lines that have bad gear that I will likely fall onto.
If you really want to learn how to place trad gear, go do some top roped aiding up some 5.12 cracks.
From my own experience, you get good at rock climbing quickly if you climb above your limit on TR and on sport leads that aren't run-out and you climb trad at just below or at your limit depending on gear placements. I've been seriously rock climbing for 3 years with some climbers who know their stuff and I lead trad 5.11- and sport 5.11+, but I am by no means bragging because 5.11 is a pretty modest climb compared to what guys are putting up these days. My point is that if you want to get better, then climb harder and train harder and find some mentors that will teach you techniques, but if you want to just enjoy easy climbing then go for it, 5.7 can be pretty fun.