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Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreciated

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Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreciated

Postby ashish » Fri Aug 19, 2011 4:27 am

I am a Houstonion. Looking for climbs within 5 hours from Portland or Seattle between September and November. I am a reasonably experienced hiker but novice climber looking to get some mountaineering experience. I will most likely be climbing solo, therefore, looking easy to moderate snow climbs (<45 degrees) or glaciers without much crevasse danger. I do not have glacier travel skills. My skills are limited to axe and crampons. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. I have found some options I thought were reasonable, but not sure how they are in fall season.

Hayden Glacier: http://www.summitpost.org/north-ridge-v ... ier/155622
Hyas Creek Glacier: http://www.summitpost.org/hyas-creek-gl ... all/155582
Colchuck Glacier: http://www.summitpost.org/colchuck-glacier/162204
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Re: Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreci

Postby Wastral » Fri Aug 19, 2011 8:55 am

Honestly that time of the year, there are no snow climbs that do not involve glaciers that will be Wide open without snow bridges. Glacier ice climbing in fall is great though with a partner and ice screws etc.

Likewise your volcano climbs(middle sister) will be retched experiences as you will be toiling through, pardon the pun, mountains of VERY LOOSE pumice = Pain In The ASS(PITA). Volcanoes are best climbed in early summer when all the hordes of pumice is buried under snow.

Hyas Creek Glacier isn't a glacier, but has beautiful fall colors in that region going up to Mt. Daniel. "trail" boot path to the top.
Colchuck isn't a glacier either, but there is no destination for climbing Colchuck glacier. All the peaks require rope and a partner unless you free solo 5.6 and above.

Sorry, not exactly helping you here. Fly to New Zealand? =)
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Re: Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreci

Postby Snowslogger » Sat Aug 20, 2011 6:31 pm

Head up to Camp Muir on Rainier? While not a summit, could be a fun experience, get you up to 10K, and get some great views.
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Re: Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreci

Postby ashish » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:31 pm

Thanks for the info guys, I was thinking I would attempt Mt. hood through the standard route. I know it is not as easy as it seems especially during fall when the rockfall is high. But my plan is to get as high as possible while being safe. I do not mind if I do not summit. If I can make it to the Crater Rock good, If I do the hogsback, great. I don't mind turning around from there. I just need some mountaineering experience. Let me know if I being a complete fool here - cos I dont want to die before I am 30 :)
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Re: Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreci

Postby billisfree » Thu Aug 25, 2011 5:52 am

You can probably make Crater Rock and/or the Hogsback with very little risk at this time of year. Most likely it's bare scree by now. Take ice axe and crampons if you want to go beyond Crater Rock.
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Re: Info on SnowClimbs near Portland/Seattle-Greatly appreci

Postby ExcitableBoy » Thu Aug 25, 2011 1:52 pm

I think you need to narrow your date range. Early Sept vs. late Nov are very, very different weather and conditions wise.
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