Right - straight to it.

I have an opportunity to take a cute girl ice climbing for her first time.

Problem: As I don't have access to my gear in any reasonable amount of time I can only build my anchor out of what I have in my car's boot. Which means I have one 100 foot long piece of webbing, three quick draws, six biners and five locking biners.

The only place I have to anchor is a concrete column. It it acceptable to girth hitch the column with one end of the webbing and with the other end tie two bites (one on the end and one down the length of the webbing sufficient enough to circle the column) on the other end of the webbing and fix that end of the webbing around the column with a locking, or two, biners. Then I would pull down two separate and independent lines of webbing to the center and equalize them there.

Climbing with cute girl = fun. Safe = better.

What are you equalizing? Sounds like you only have the one anchor. Just sling the column.

I have both ends of the webbing attached to the column so two seperate lines to pull down to equalize... Its a loop but its easy to make them seperate as far as load and failure go...

Oh the pic... LOL I have LOTS of pictures but I can't post them here as it would kill the thread off in short order - the mods take a dim view of those sorts of pics.

I'm not sure if I'm picturing your scenario correctly .. my assumption is that your concrete column is directly over the ice you want to climb and it is solid, like a tree.

Here's how I would sling a tree for an anchor. Pretend the shredder is your column and that the cordelette is your webbing -





Tie the webbing into a loop (maybe you've done this already) and loop it around the column. Then tie a figure 8 to make your powerpoint. Done.

I'm assuming you know how to proceed from there. If not, take her out to dinner instead

Erik Beeler wrote:Oh the pic... LOL I have LOTS of pictures but I can't post them here as it would kill the thread off in short order - the mods take a dim view of those sorts of pics.

That's ok. You can send them with e-mail!

And regarding rhyang's post, if you hook up with the "right" bunch of canyoneers, you won't even have to use a pillar for an anchor. Just a short sling around that paper shredder would be considered bomber!

rhyang wrote:

This is a very nice photo showing the proper way to anchor off a paper shredder. Securing the cord near the floor reduces the leverage on the shredder and doubling up the cord adds redundancy to the system. In an alpine environment this single anchor would be fine but if gear and time permitted I would add a second cord to the nearby door knob and equalize it with the powerpoint just to be safe. I've seen shredders that have tipped over before.

Brad Marshall wrote:

rhyang wrote:

This is a very nice photo showing the proper way to anchor off a paper shredder. Securing the cord near the floor reduces the leverage on the shredder and doubling up the cord adds redundancy to the system. In an alpine environment this single anchor would be fine but if gear and time permitted I would add a second cord to the nearby door knob and equalize it with the powerpoint just to be safe. I've seen shredders that have tipped over before.

LOL

TacoDelRio wrote:Don't forget to post pics of who is being toproped!

Very good point !

What I wanna know is why Rob needs an office grade paper shredder at home. I suspect it has something to do with kinky lhama pictures and concern over a raid by PETA...

and do I see fur on that cordalette..?

Brad Marshall wrote:

rhyang wrote:

This is a very nice photo showing the proper way to anchor off a paper shredder. Securing the cord near the floor reduces the leverage on the shredder and doubling up the cord adds redundancy to the system. In an alpine environment this single anchor would be fine but if gear and time permitted I would add a second cord to the nearby door knob and equalize it with the powerpoint just to be safe. I've seen shredders that have tipped over before.

Would this also work with a dehimidifier? I would think that if it was full the added weight of the water may help to stabilize the base.

I've got it! Rob Yang = the member formerly known as Shredder. It all fits!

Ha ha ! No, Shredder lives up in Redding and runs an online store, among other things. Never actually met the dude.