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Karakorum wrap-ups

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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby TimB » Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:48 pm

Luc wrote:over 1000m in 12hrs, 70 degree slope of ice and rotten rock, all in winter, wow :D


Amazing. Fantastic stuff!
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Luc » Fri Feb 25, 2011 6:49 pm

February 24, 2011
Team ABC Climbed from Basecamp up to 6250m, trying to set-up camp 1 but in vain due to the angle of the face, temperature and wind.
They returned to BC cumulating to a 15hrs day!

Louis Rousseau
Kurv.tv 2011-02-24
Desnivel

Alex And Louis at 6100m
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Tue Mar 01, 2011 4:04 pm

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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Luc » Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:32 pm

February 25, 2011
Louis and Gerfried left at 4:20am to continue on the route, Alex stayed in BC to rest.
They had to deviate from the planned route to fix the route up to 6300m.
They had to chop out a ledge out of the ice to set up Camp 1 (at this elevation it should had been Camp 2, beggars can't be choosers), they returned to BC after a 14-1/2 hour marathon.

During this time, 3 porters delivered supplies to BC after an 8 day hike...
A big thanks goes out to Mr. Ali Muhammad from Adventure Pakistan for organizing this.

The Team including Alex will head up March 1st to sleep at Camp 1, Alex will stay there to finish setting up Camp 1, Louis and Gerfried will head up to setup Camp 2 at 7000m.
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Luc » Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:44 pm

March 3rd, 2011
Since February 10 (more than three weeks), we nearly only had clouds over our heads. Although suffering a lot under these tough circumstances we worked hard and established camp 1 on the icy ridge at 6300m.
Even if there was no good weather we climbed up again last Tuesday, two days ago. After long work we widened the tiny platform a little bit more, built up the tent, secure it with ice screws and Abalakov anchors. Two people could lie-down on solid ground, but one must be happy with "void hanging" tent floor. Luckily Alex agreed without hesitation to take this "cherished" place J. To be more save and preserve his nerves, we filled the area with ropes and he kept roped in his sleeping bag.
Our first night on the mountain was harsh with -35° and strong wind and we nearly got no sleep. It was hard to get out of the sleeping bag in the morning after freezing a lot. The strong storm didn´t allow a climb up. After a short breakfast we quickly went down to basecamp yesterday in difficult conditions.
Now our acclimatization and our bodies are ready for the next step, to attempt the summit.
Trusting our irreplaceable friend Dr. Karl Gabl it looks good that on the end of the week the sky opens for the first time after weeks and the stormy conditions slowly go down to more gentle wind. Maybe we try a first summit attempt next week J

Here is their newest video!

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Our camp 1 on a tiny place (quarter more big), above the last hard 500m to the top of the wall at 6800m which we indent to climb next week.

From Louis Rousseau's site
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:19 am

Karakoram wrap & videos - summit push next week? http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=19985

Alex Txicon's new blog: http://www.blogseitb.com/alextxikon/

Here is a video where you can see how they secured that tent and the nasty weather conditions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... OwgU#at=30
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby aran » Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:58 pm

Thanks for sharing those links, Diego!
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Mar 07, 2011 3:29 pm

Thanks to you aran. Álex Txicon y el ABC Team parten hacia la cumbre del Gasherbrum 1: http://desnivel.com/expediciones/alex-t ... sherbrum-1

They want to be on GI summit on tuesday: http://www.blogseitb.com/alextxikon/201 ... ko-bidean/ (in Spanish and Basque)
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Tue Mar 08, 2011 2:43 pm

Alex Txikon alcanza el campo 1: http://deia.com/2011/03/08/deportes/mon ... el-campo-1

More (in Spanish and Basque): http://www.blogseitb.com/alextxikon/
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:09 pm

Alex y sus compañeros llegan hasta los 6.650 metros en un día “muy duro”: http://www.blogseitb.com/alextxikon/201 ... -muy-duro/
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:00 pm

Karakoram update: Polish coming down on BP, Alex about GI, "too hard, too cold": http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20002

Winter Karakoram update, pics and video: GI team to try again, Simone Moro comments on climbs: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20003

Try again? Broad Peak debrief: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20005

Gasherbrum 1 last ditch attempt: Climbers at 6200 meters: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20007

Last summit chance for winter Karakoram teams: GI men up on normal route - Poles following on Broad Peak: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ... p?id=20008
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:06 pm

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak):

http://www.blogseitb.com/alextxikon/ (in Spanish and Basque)

http://www.gerfriedgoeschl.at/ (in German)

http://www.louisrousseau.com/ (in French but not updated)
Last edited by Diego Sahagún on Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Diego Sahagún » Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:09 pm

Broad Peak:

Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015: http://eng.polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/pag ... 201011.php (in Polish and English)
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Luc » Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:09 am

The ABC team is on their way to the G1 summit, via the normal route (Japanese variation)
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Re: Karakorum wrap-ups

Postby Luc » Tue Mar 15, 2011 1:46 pm

Latest news, They turned back after a night at camp 3, they're heading down to BC now, too much violent winds.
G1 will remain un-climbed in the winter for now, Louis passed this message from Camp 1 last night.

Gerfried's Spot
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